When was the last time you checked your bicyle chain for wear? Paying attention to its condition and replacing your chain once its stretched can save you BIG money. As chain parts wear out, the chain elongates (or stretches) and if you dont replace it in time, it can wear down your other drivetrain parts with it. The good news? Learning to check your bike chain for wear is one of the EASIEST maintenance tasks out there. Anybody can do it (yes, even you). It takes just a couple minutes, and the only special tool you need costs a few bucks.I check my own chain about once a month, usually while Im already cleaning and lubing it. In this article (and video), Ill walk you through when to replace your chain, and exactly how to check it step by step.Watch The VideoWhat Youll NeedNot much! Thats the beauty of this one.Your bike. A chain wear indicator tool (also called a chain checker). You can buy one online and theyre super inexpensive, usually around $10 to $15, so its a great thing to keep in your maintenance kit. I recommend the Park Tools chain wear indicator* because it measures both 50% and 75% stretch. Ill explain that more in a moment. I have this cheaper one* from Bike Hand but it only shows 75% stretch. Dont have a chain checker and dont want to buy one right this second? No problem. You can get a rough read with a ruler, and Ill show you how a little further down.What Do You Mean By Chain Wear?!When we say were checking a chain for wear, what were really checking for is stretch.No, your chain isnt stretching like a rubber band. Whats actually happening is that the little pins and rollers inside each link slowly wear down as you ride. That wear creates tiny gaps, and multiplied across a hundred-plus links, those gaps add up. The result is a chain thats measurably longer than it was when it was new.A chain wear indicator tool measures that elongation for you.Why This Matters (Hint: Money)A stretched chain doesnt sit cleanly on your cassette cogs and chainrings anymore. Instead of rolling over them cleanly, it starts grinding away at those teeth and wearing THEM out too.If you catch the wear early enough, you just replace the chain (which is relatively inexpensive).Wait too long, and that worn chain will chew up your cassette, your front chain ring, and even your derailleur pulley wheels. Now youre looking at replacing your whole drivetrain, which is EXPENSIVE.Replacing your chain on time is the single easiest way to make everything else last longer. When Should You Replace Your Chain?Most chain checkers give you a reading as a percentage of wear, commonly 50%, 75%, and 100%. (Id recommend buying one that shows both 50% and 75%). When your chain gets to around 50% stretch its time to think about replacing your chain soon. At 75% stretch, its time to replace right away. At 100% stretch, theres a good chance youll have to replace additional parts in addition to your chain. The more cogs (rings) you have on your cassette, the sooner youll want to replace. Those higher-speed chains are narrower and less forgiving of wear, so 10, 11, and 12-speed setups are the ones to really stay on top of, ideally replacing around 50%. You can also look up the exact number that your drivetrain manufacturer recommends replacing at. SRAM and Shimano, for instance, publish the wear spec for each chain.How To Check Your Chain For Wear, Step By StepGrab your chain checker tool and find any spot along the chain to test.Place the little teeth (hook-shaped) at the back of the tool over one of the roller pins.3. Lay the tool down flat onto the chain and let the other end drop toward the chain. The part that drops down into the tool will be labeled 50% or 75%. 4. Read it. If the indicator drops all the way down into the chain, your chain is worn to that percentage and its time to think about (or do) a replacement. If the tool sits up on top of the chain and wont settle in, youve still got some life left.The first image shows that indicator dropping fully into the chain. This chain is ready for replacement. The second image shows the tool sitting on top of the chain; it still has some life left. What did I tell you? Super duper easy.No Chain Checker? Grab A RulerIf youd rather not buy a tool yet, you can get a decent read with a plain old ruler. Its less precise, but itll tell you if youre in trouble.On a new chain, 12 full links measure exactly 12 inches, pin center to pin center. So line up your ruler with the center of one pin at the zero mark and count 12 links down:Bang on 12 inches: youre good.About 12 and 1/16 inches: wear is showing, start planning to replace.12 and 1/8 inches or more: replace it now, and check your cassette while youre at it.Is this as accurate as a $10 tool? No. But it works in a pinch and it costs you nothing, so theres no reason to skip the check just because you dont own a checker yet.How Often Should You Check?I check about once a month, and I usually do it when Im cleaning and lubing my chain already. Ride a lot of miles, or ride in wet and gritty conditions? Grime accelerates wear, so check more often. When in doubt, check. It takes two minutes and its free.What To Do If Your Chain Is WornTime for a new chain! And heres more good news: replacing your chain is another simple maintenance task you can do at home, no bike shop required.If you rode your chain WAY past worn (it happens, no shame), a fresh chain might skip on your other, worn parts. Thats how you know its probably time to replace them too. (Also not too hard, but more expensive). Bottom LineChecking your chain for wear is cheap, fast, and one of the highest-payoff maintenance habits you can build. A basic chain checker costs about the price of a coffee, the check itself takes two minutes, and staying on top of it can save you a couple hundred bucks in drivetrain parts down the road.Check monthly, replace by about 75%, and youll keep your bike shifting smoothly for a lot longer. More Stuff You Might Find HelpfulHow To Refresh Tubeless Tire SealantHow To Replace Disc Brake Pads On Your BicycleYour Guide To Bike MaintenanceAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post How To Check Your Bike Chain For Wear appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

News alert: you shouldnt be suffering in the saddle! Saddle sores, soft tissue pain, chafing, and pelvic floor issues should not be ignored.There ARE solutions to your saddle pain and discomfort downstairs. In this article (and podcast episode), Ill share 7 things you can try to address your issues.Listen To (Or Watch) This Episode1) Try a womens specific saddle. Most stock saddles are designed for men, not women. If youre still riding on the saddle that came with your bike, try upgrading.We especially recommend trying a womens-specific saddle. These are generally designed to better suit the female anatomy, addressing wider sit bones and our soft tissue.Numerous women-specific saddles are available on the market, and weve tested and reviewed a bunch for you. But remember, everyones anatomy varies, and therefore what works best for me might not be what works best for you.Its beneficial to try out several different saddles to determine which one is a good fit. If possible, opt for shops that offer loaner saddles for testing. Or, buy from a brand like Terry that will let you test any saddle for 30 days. Another important thing to consider when selecting a saddle is your sit bone width. Everyone has different pelvic widths, and its crucial to find a saddle that fits you just right. While there are DIY methods available online, like using memory foam or tin foil to measure your sit bone width, getting a professional bike fit can offer a more accurate measurement. Some bike shops even offer this service for free if youre buying a saddle from them.If you want to try measuring your sit bones on your own, I made a video showing you how. 2) Switch up your bike shorts. If youre new to cycling and havent yet bought a quality pair of bike shorts, this could be a game-changer. If you already own a pair and still experience discomfort, it might be time to explore other options. Try investing in a higher-end pair, or experiment with different thickness levels for the padding, known as the chamois. Some cyclists even prefer riding without a chamois altogether (particularly for mountain biking or bikepacking). Just like saddles, the size and shape of chamois vary, and finding the right one requires some trial and error. Try a few and see what works best for you.3) Change the position of your saddle (or better yet, get a bike fit).If youve already tried new shorts and a new saddle and that hasnt helped, it might be that your saddle is just positioned incorrectly. When I interviewed Natalie Collins, a professional bike fitter, on my podcast, she explained: A lot of people that come in to see me are on the right saddle, just the saddle is positioned in the wrong way. We have to position that saddle in a way that we can support sit bones. The saddle is just a little bit too tilted up or tilted down.Try experimenting with the position of your saddle over several rides and see if that helps. Or better yet, invest and get a professional bike fit. An experienced fitter can help adjust your position on the bike so that youre better situated on your sit bones.4) Use chamois cream. If chafing is your issue, try a chamois cream. Chamois cream acts as a barrier between your skin and your shorts, reducing friction.You can apply a small amount to your butt and/or inner thighs. We recommend looking for one that is pH balanced for women!5) Take off your bike shorts right away. As soon as your ride is over, take your bike shorts off. As in, in the parking lot! Leaving sweaty shorts on can cause yeast infections, rashes and other yucky (and uncomfortable!) stuff.And when you get home, make sure to take a shower.6) Give it time. You shouldnt suffer forever, but if you are brand new to cycling, give it some time. Your butt muscles will toughen up and you might even develop a few callouses. (Yup, thats a thing).7) See a physical therapist and/or doctor.Sitting on a saddle can aggravate pelvic floor issues. Dont suffer! There are solutions. Online platforms like YouTube have numerous pelvic floor yoga and exercise tutorials. In more severe cases, its advisable to consult a physical therapist specializing in pelvic floor issues. Its a common problem, and seeking professional help shouldnt be stigmatized.Additionally, if youre in peri or post menopause and experiencing soft tissue pain, seeing a doctor for prescription vaginal estrogen can make a big difference! Even More HelpHow to Heal (and Prevent) Cycling Saddle SoresDont Wear Underwear With Bike Shorts & 5 Other Tips On How To Wear Bike ShortsGetting Back On The Saddle After Having A BabyAre You Listening To The Femme Cyclist Podcast?!?A podcast for women who love bicycles! We we celebrate all forms of riding and all forms of women, so whether youre a road cyclist, mountain biker, or bike commuter, youll find your community here. Each week well week bring you interviews from inspiring women, and offer tips and tricks to help you thrive on the bike.About The HostKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post 7 Solutions For Saddle Pain & Discomfort Down There appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Our hands are one of only three contact points we have with our bicycle, making gloves one of the most important, yet most overlooked pieces of bike gear we have. A glove needs to be comfortable enough that we dont mind wearing it, protective enough that our hands wont get shredded in the event of a crash, and thin enough that we can get feedback from the trail or road. The Giro LA DND womens full-finger glove manages to meet all of these criteria. Ive been happy with the glove on both the trail and the road. It also happens to be cuter and more affordable than many other gloves on the market, so theres not much not to love. For even more glove options, make sure to check out our list of the best womens mountain bike gloves.Review In A NutshellPros:Affordable, has the feel of a more expensive gloveEasy slip-on designCute designsCons:Run a bit smallTouch-screen compatibility doesnt always workPrice: $29.95 ListBuy at Amazon.comBuy at REI.comVideo ReviewAffordable Price TagIve learned that no matter how well made a glove is, Ill manage to destroy them within a season of hard riding. Thats why I liked the fact that the Giro LA DND gloves are cheaper than many comparable gloves. At $29, you wont be too sad when you get a hole in the thumb or one gets left behind and the trailhead.Slip-On Design Allows For Quick On and OffWhile wrist closure is largely a personal preference, I found that I really liked the slip-on nature of the Giro LA DND. By not having to fasten the wrist, I could quickly slip my gloves on and off for bathroom breaks, snack breaks, and photo breaks. Theres also a helpful tab on the back of the wrist to help you pull the gloves on.Smaller Fit Means You Should Order Up a Size From Unisex GlovesThese gloves run a bit on the small size. I have small hands and the size small gloves are pretty snug. In retrospect, I would probably order up a size. If you are accustomed to buying unisex gloves, be aware that these womens-specific gloves run a size smaller than you are used to. That said, they are not as crazy teeny-tiny as many other womens-specific gloves.So Comfortable Youll Forget Your Wearing ThemThe Giro LA DND gloves are some of the most comfortable gloves Ive worn. They dont have any weird seams to rub (I have REALLY sensitive skin), and theyre not bulky or hot. The padding on the palm will keep your hands comfy even on hour four of riding but arent so bulky that you lose the feeling of the trail. There are several ventilation holes in the palms as well, and I never felt my hands getting sweaty on the bars. One thing I really appreciate, is the expanding fabric at the middle joint. This allows your fingers to easily curve and grip the bars without any uncomfortable pressure. Many gloves dont have this feature, which can make the gloves feel tight around the middle joint. Great For 3-Season Trail and Road RidingThe Giro LA DND gloves are not warm enough for true cold-weather riding, nor do they have enough top-of-hand protection for aggressive downhill riding. But for spring, summer, and fall trail rides, they are just about perfect. Ive also been happy using these gloves on the gravel bike. Although theyre advertised as mountain bike gloves, for women (like me!) that prefer a full-finger glove on the gravel or road bike rather than a half-finger glove, these are perfect.Touchy Touch-Screen CompatibilityLike many gloves themselves as touch-screen compatible, the Giro LA DND gloves work with screens most of the time, but not 100% of the time. I found that if I wanted to make sure I got the picture, I would take the gloves off to make sure that it worked.If you are a frequent iphone photo taker or use Trailforks a bunch, and dont want to take off your gloves, you might want to look for a different pair of gloves.Bottom-Line: A Comfortable, Affordable Full Finger Glove For Road And TrailIf youre picky about the way your gloves feel, give the Giro LA DND gloves a try. (Just remember to size up a bit so that theyre not too small). Ive been happy with these gloves on both the road and the trail, and will use them summer, spring, and fall. The only application we wouldnt recommend them for is downhill riding or freeriding where you need more protection than these gloves offer.For everybody else, you probably wont find a better glove at this price point.Buy at Amazon.com*More Stuff Youll Love9 Ways To Increase Your Confidence On The Mountain BikeWomens MTB Clinics, Camps, & EventsWhat To Wear Mountain Biking: Everything You Need To Know!About The ReviewerKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post Giro LA DND Womens Bike Glove Review appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

If youve been considering switching from a traditional hydration pack, to a fanny pack, take a look at the Dakine Hot Laps 5L.It carries enough water that you wont be sorry you made the switch, plus it shifts the weight from your shoulders and back and onto your hips. We found that the Dakine Hot Laps 5L is one of the most comfortable, best-constructed mountain bike fanny packs around. We like it so much, that we added it to our list of the best mountain bike hip packs for women.Review In A NutshellPros:Large 2L Hydrapak reservoirExternal straps to affix a jacket or padsPlenty of internal pockets to organize tools/gearComfortable off-centered waistbandCons:No off-switch on the bite valveMagnetic bite valve clip isnt strong enoughPrice: $120 ListBuy at Amazon.comBuy at REI.comDakine Hot Laps 5L Video Review2L Reservoir Carries PLENTY of WaterOne of the biggest issues most people have when switching to a fanny pack from a traditional hydration pack is the inability to carry as much water as youre used to. Luckily, this isnt a problem with the Hot Laps 5L.The Dakine pack comes with a whopping 2L Hydrack reservoir making it rival all but the largest hydration packs. I found this was plenty of water to last for me on all but the hottest and longest rides.The reservoir itself is easy to fill, and the zip-lock style closure is solidno leaks! It fastens into the larger pocket via a clip and then zips closed.The Bite Valve Leaves A Bit To Be DesiredWhile I like the reservoir itself, the bite valve isnt my favorite. First off, it doesnt have a lock-out switch. While this seemed okay at first, over time, the bite valve started leaking a bit. I would have liked a way to turn off the water flow completely.Secondly, the magnetic clip, while nice in theory, doesnt do a great job of keeping the bit valve securely in place. This is the same complaint I had about the Osprey Seral fanny pack. In order to keep the hose from coming loose and danging precariously close to the rear wheel, I took to tucking the hose through the strap that the magnet sits on. External Clips Create Additional Storage SpaceMy favorite thing about the Dakine Hot Laps 5L is the handy-dandy external straps. I found these helpful for storing either a jacket or protective pads. The two straps cinch up nicely and keep soft-goods securely in place.There is also webbing on the front of the pack that you could potentially use to secure more gear. Clip-on a blinky light or use some lash straps to strap on another layer. Internal Storage Space Is Minimal, But Theres Plenty of Pockets For OrganizationThank goodness for all the external storage space, because the internal storage space on the Hot Laps pack is minimal. If you fill the 2L reservoir all the way, theres not that much space left inside for gear.The front zippered pocket includes several smaller pockets that are helpful for keeping everything organized. I used the internal zippered pockets for stashing my keys and some cash. (My phone was too large). With the reservoir filled on the way, Im able to fit my phone, keys, cash, mini-pump, tire levers, multi-tool, and an energy bar. I did not have space for a plus-sized tube. Waistband Is Comfortable (Most of The Time) The waistband is off-centered and buckles on the left side. I prefer this to the center-buckle on the Osprey fanny pack, as there is only one strap to secure rather than two. Theres also an elastic band to secure the extra strap so you dont have to use a hairband like Im doing on my Osprey Seral. I found that the waistband was comfortable.most of the time. When the pack is filled to max capacity, I could feel the pack pulling away from my lower back and tugging on the strap at my waist. This was mildly uncomfortable. When filled only half-way, which is how I ride for most of my shorter 2-hourish rides, the pack was comfortable and I didnt notice any chafing our digging into my mid-section. The Back Provides Decent BreathabilityThe back of the pack (the part that sits against your lower back) has a breathable AirFlow panel. Essentially, foam grooves hold the pack away from your back a bit to help create breathability.While it did a pretty good of job of keeping my lower back dry, I found on hot days, my back got quite a bit sweatier with the Hot Laps than with my Osprey pack. In particular, the side strap areas laid pretty close to my body with limited ventilation, and I noticed my hips were where my jersey gets wet. The Pack Stays in Place While You RideWhen you are navigating a techy section of trail, the last thing you want is a pack slip-sliding around, causing you to lose focus. Fortunately, the Dakine Hot Laps does just what its supposed toit stays in place. In addition to the adjustable waist strap, there are also side straps that let you cinch up the pack. I havent had any problems with the Dakine slipping or flopping around, even in rocky terrain. It Looks Cool!Lets be honest, we dont want a pack thats just functional, we want one that looks cool as well. And the Dakine Hot Laps has got to be the hippest pack around. (Pun totally intended). In addition to the plan ol black pack I have, the Hot Laps comes in several colors and designs, so youre sure to find one that you like. Comparison Chart: Dakine Hot Laps vs The CompetitionYoull note that the Dakine is reasonably priced compared to the other hip pack options on the market. It also has the biggest water reservoir around, which makes it a top pick if you want to maximize hydration capacity. The only pack I personally prefer to the Dakine is the Osprey Seral. While it shares the same crappy magnetic hose clip design, the overall construction of the pack is a little nicer.Fanny PackWater CapacityTotal CapacityDakine Hot Laps 5L*2L 5LOsprey Seral 7L *1.5L7LPatagonia Nine Trail 8L1.5L8LEvoc Hip Pack Race with Bladder*1.5L3LCamelbak Repack*1.5L2.5LBottom-Line: A Hip Choice For Female Mountain BikersNo matter your color preferences, youll find a Dakine Hot Laps 5L style that you like. Fortunately, the pack not only looks good its also highly functional, thanks to the extra-large hydration reservoir and external lash straps. Its comfortable and stays in place no matter how hard you ride. The only bummer is the bite valve that doesnt close and the lack of strength of the magnetic clip, but neither of those were deal breakers for us. Do More Research Before Buying a PackBest MTB Fanny Packs For WomenBest Womens Hydration PacksAbout The ReviewerKristen Bonkoski is the founder and owner of Femme Cyclist.An avid cyclist for a few decades now, she took to cycling during her late teen years a time when she needed something to help boost her self-esteem and confidence.Mission accomplished, the sport has become an important part of her life. Kristens favorite disciplines are mountain biking andbike commuting, although youcan also find her crankingout a century on her road bike and touring with her husband and son. If it has to do with two wheels, she enjoys doing it.Kristen is a certified USA Cycling coach, and she runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.IG:@kristenlbonkoskiThe post Dakine Hot Laps 5L Review appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Mountain bike gloves arent just a nice-to-have, theyre kind of a must-have. The most obvious reason to wear gloves on the trails is that they protect your hands from serious carnage in the event of a crash. But mountain bike gloves also absorb vibration on bumpy trails, keep sweaty hands from slipping off the bars, defend against blisters, and shield the front of your hands from wayward branches.MTB gloves are basically under-recognized, under-appreciated super-heros, right?That said, some gloves are more Spiderman-y than others. Ive tested a bunch of gloves and surveyed the women in this community to pick out the best womens mountain bike gloves out there.These are gloves that fit well (even for small hands), provide comfort and protection, and are durable enough to last an entire season (or more)! Some are also pretty cute because, lets be honest, thats important too.Here are my faves Shredly Mountain Bike GlovePrice: $29 (get 10% off using my link )Buy at Shredly.comShredly makes my favorite mountain bike shorts, and surprise, surprise, they make my favorite mountain bike gloves too! Shredly is a womens-specific mountain bike apparel company so everything they design is designed for WOMEN. One of my biggest complaints about mountain bike gloves from most brands is that theyre usually unisex and come in like three sizes, leaving small to supposedly fit all women. The Shredly gloves are sized specifically for women and come in SIX (!!!) sizes, so youre actually ensured a good fit. I followed their size chart and what do you know, my gloves fit like a glove. That improved fit means more dexterity, touchscreen-compatible fingertips, and way less time spent taking them on and off out on the trail. Oh, and theyre incredibly cute. They come in a wide variety of prints, and they match the rest of the Shredly apparel line if you want to put together a super cute fit.For summer riding, these are awesome. Theyre lightweight enough that you can actually feel the grips through them, and the thin uppers provide good airflow on those ridiculously hot days. The flip side is that the thinner construction means less durability and less protection for gravity riding or overgrown trailsand theyre definitely not a winter glove. Wild Rye Galena Bike GlovePrice: $49Buy at Wild-Rye.comThe Wild Rye Galena gloves are named after one of my favorite places to bike and eat (the Galena Lodge and Galena trails near Ketchum, ID). I feel like for that reason I have to like them, BUT theyre pretty great gloves on their own accord as well.They dont come in quite as many sizes as the Shredly gloves, but there are 4 sizes and the smallest of those fits even the tiniest handsmuch appreciated. While the gloves are pretty minimal and provide good dexterity, they do have a little bit of extra gel padding right at the heel of the hand which can be really nice on hour three of a ride. These are some of my favorites to pick for longer days in the saddle.And like all things Wild Rye, they come in cute colors and patterns, and pair nicely with a Wild Rye kit.They are great in summer weather, and for gravel and trail riding, but youll want something more substantial for gravity or winter riding. The tops also snag easily (but no holes).Trail Manos Price: $30 Buy at TrailManos.comTrail Manos makes simple but durable gloves. They have zero padding, no mesh, but the materials and fabrics are sturdy. Mine are as dirty and beat up as can be, but theyre still going strong! If youre really crazy tough on gloves, then you can join the Trail Manos Club, where for $11 a month, youll get a new pair delivered to your doorstep each month. The biggest draw to the Trail Manos gloves is the WIDE VARIETY of designs. Find a design for your favorite state, your favorite pup, or order custom gloves for you and your friends. My gloves are for the NICA team Im a coach for! These are unisex gloves which means you may not get AS precise of a fit, but the XS and S sizes fit smaller hands pretty well. Things to Think About When Buying a Mountain Bike GloveFitFor some weird reason, its hard to find womens mountain bike gloves that have a good fit. For most women, mens gloves are way too big, but womens-specific gloves can feel like they were made for little kids. Cmon bike industry!That said, weve tried to make notes above of which gloves run really small, so you can always order a size up or look for a different glove.If you have really big hands or really long fingers, you might also want to try looking for a pair of mens gloves. Also note, that even if a glove intitially feels a little tight, they do usually stretch some with time. Bike gloves should fit tighter and have less loose material than a pair of work gloves for instance.Wrist ClosureThe best kind of wrist closure is largely a matter of personal preference. Do you like a snug secure fit, or do you like being able to take your gloves on and off in a hurry? For me personally, I prefer a slip-on/slip-off glove without a velcro or hook-and-loop closure so I can take pictures with my phone / check my Trailforks app, and dig in my bag for snacks for my 6-year-old. Slip-on wrist closureVelcro wrist closureBreathability and DurabilityThinner, lighter gloves generally breathe better for hot weather and can feel less bulky and provide more trail feedback. That said, they are less durable and will usually wear out sooner. They also provide less protection both in terms of armor on the front of the hands and padding on the palms. This pair of gloves has a breathable mesh top but has worn quicklyChoose a pair of gloves that matches the climate you ride in, the amount of vegetation you ride through, and how much padding you like. Also consider how long you want the gloves to last. Is it okay if you only get one season out of them? More Stuff You Might LikeBest Womens Mountain Bike Shorts9 Ways To Increase Your Confidence On The Mountain BikeBest Womens Mountain Bike Clinics, Camps, & EventsAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post Best Womens Mountain Bike Gloves appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Youve taken the time to research the perfect bike and spent your hard-earned cash to bring said bike home, but you may have forgotten one crucial part of the equation: how are you going to transport your noble steed safely? Look no further than the Thule T2 Pro XTR. I have had a number of bike racks throughout my cycling career, and have never trusted a rack as much as I trust the Thule T2 Pro XTR.Review in a NutshellPros: Fits a wide range of wheel sizes and tire widths (including 20 wheels) Durable High carrying capacity (60 lbs per bike) HitchSwitch allows easy full trunk accessCons:Heavy Integrated locks arent robust enoughPrice (MSRP): $899Buy at REI.comBuy at Amazon.comWhy I Chose The Thule T2 Pro XTRAfter several recommendations and hours of research, heres how I decided on the Thule T2 Pro XTR rack:Versatility & AdjustabilityAs someone who takes the n+1 rule very literally, versatility is important to me. I have a lot of bikes, and finding a rack suitable for all of them can be difficult. I dont want to have to pick a side on The Great Mountain Bike Wheel Size Debate, and Thule didnt want to either. The T2 Pro XTR rack is able to transport bikes with 20 to 29 wheels without any additional adapters. There are not too many racks out there that fit 20 bikes without adapters, or even at all, so this rack is a great option for families with little shredders.The rear closure is also incredibly adjustable. The mount slides seamlessly along the tray to fit a wide range of wheelbases. The ratchet straps are adjustable as well and can fit 700 x 23 road tires with the same confidence as 26 x 5.0 fat bike tires, and again, without additional parts. Thule does say that this rack will not fit a 27.5 fat bike, the limiter would be the front ratcheting arm. I have fit bikes with 27.5 x 3.0 wheels and tires, but can see how anything larger might pose a problem.Weight & Carrying CapacityHitch racks are heavy, and this rack is no exception. Coming in at around 52 pounds, this rack is not the lightest on the market, but since I am a set it and forget it type of rack user, this was not a huge concern for me. I much prefer durability to lightweight. I previously owned a four-bike rack that weighed less than the Thule T2 Pro XTR 2-bike rack, but that rack only made it two trips before I ran into issues. My Thule has been on my car for the last six months, and I have not even had to tighten anything yet.This hefty rack is not overbuilt for no reason this rack has one of the higher carrying capacities on the market. Along with adjustability, this was one of the most important factors that led to my decision. Most of my bikes weigh over 30 pounds, and my e-bikes top out close to 50 pounds. The T2 Pro XTR has an impressive weight limit of 60 pounds per bike for both the 2 and 1-1/4 receiver options.There is a 2-bike add on available to bring the carrying capacity up to four bikes, but only for the 2 receiver. Thule T2 Pro XTR rack photoed with a 2017 Stumpjumper Pro with 27.5 x 3.0 tires. Whats HotThe Thule T2 Pro XTR has some really cool features, and now that I know they exist, I will never be able to live without.The HitchSwitch might be my favorite feature on this rack. The HitchSwitch is a handle positioned at the end of the rack. This handle is easy to grab with one hand and allows you to tilt the rack up when not in use, or tilt down when you need to access the trunk. Other racks hide the release lever under the bike trays, making it especially difficult to lower the rack when bikes are loaded. Even with 800mm wide mountain bike handlebars, when the rack is tiled down, I am able to fully open the trunk of my SUV.Another unique feature to the Thule T2 Pro XTR is the lateral adjustability of the trays. This is the first bike rack I have owned that gives you mounting options for the trays.I have some wide handlebars on my mountain bikes, and I tend to transport two at a time. I was able to set the rack up where the trays are slightly offset so the handlebars do not get in the way of the other bikes seat / post.Not unique to Thule, but another huge perk is the integrated locks. The rack has a cable lock on each ratcheting arm to secure the bikes to the rack. The rack also has a lock at the hitch so the rack cannot be taken off the car without a key. The HitchSwitch allows the user to raise and lower the rack easily with one hand. and whats not.Surprisingly, the integrated locks. While the locks are nice to have in case you need to grab some Pop-Tarts on the way to the trail, the cables are much too short to trust for a long period of time. I understand there are limiting factors when creating a fully integrated lock, but it would be nice to have a couple of extra inches to work with. I leave a cable lock in my car to supplement the integrated locks if I know I will need to leave the bikes unattended. Now, I might be dreaming here, but this rack would be absolutely perfect with the addition of a work stand. I didnt think I would ever use the work stand attachment on the Kuat NV*, but after a few rough days at the bike park, I became a big fan of the Trail Doc. However, based on the way the Trail Doc is installed on the NV, the addition of a work stand on the Thule might have to replace the HitchSwitch, and I am not sure that is something I would be willing to give up. Work stands dont take up too much space in a car, so this definitely was not a deal-breaker for me, it just would have been a nice perk. The integrated cable locks are great in a pinch, but bring an additional cable lock if you plan to leave bikes unattended. TakeawayI love this rack and recommend it to anyone who asks. I have so much confidence that this rack will get my bikes where they need to go without issue. Thule racks are known to last and based on my initial impressions, the T2 Pro XTR will live up to this reputation. The versatility of this rack is impressive, and the price point is competitive for what the rack has to offer.More Stuff You Might LikeKuat NV 2.0 Bike Rack ReviewPacking Tips for a Multi Day Mountain Bike TripDont Wear Underwear With Bike Shorts & 5 Other Tips On How To Wear Bike ShortsKira Maickehas been an avid cyclist since 2010. She started racing road bikes in college for the University of Georgia and switched over to mountain biking after graduating and moving out west. When shes not on one of her bikes, shes out playing in the mountains with her husky, Semenuk.The post Review: Thule T2 Pro XTR Bike Rack appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Finding the perfect tire pressure for your mountain bike is more art than science. The reason that there is no magic number for tire pressure is that we each weigh a different amount, have different riding styles, and have different preferences. \Your ideal tire pressure is going to be different than your friends ideal tire pressure.This is evident even when you look at professional racers. Two riders racing on the same course and using the same tires might have their tires set at two different pressures.Despite all these factors, finding the right tire pressure is worth the effort. A properly inflated tire will increase speed, improve traction, stop pinch flats, and improve overall enjoyment.Heres exactly how to dial in the perfect mountain bike tire pressure, step by step.Step 1: Determine Your Baseline Tire PressureThe first thing is to figure out a BASELINE tire pressure. This is a starting point from which you can adjust in the following steps. Youll want to keep adjusting until you find your own personal sweet spot. Tire Width Tubeless Tubed Under 2.2 XC/race 2832 PSI 3236 PSI 2.22.3 XC/trail 2529 PSI 2933 PSI 2.32.4 trail 2327 PSI 2730 PSI 2.42.6 trail/enduro 2024 PSI 2427 PSI 2.62.8 enduro/DH 1822 PSI 2125 PSI 2.83.0 plus 1518 PSI 1822 PSI 4.0 fat bike 610 PSI 1014 PSI All ranges assume a 120150 lb rider on mixed trail. Adjust up or down using the weight table below.Note that tubeless setups can be run with much lower pressure than tires with tubes since you dont have to worry about pinch flats. In fact, this is one of the biggest reasons to switch to tubeless tires if you havent already.Step 2: Adjust For Rider WeightThe first thing you need to consider is your weight. Heavier riders need more air pressure than lighter riders. Im significantly lighter than my husband, for instance, and ride on average with 10 psi less than him. Thats a big difference.Use the table above as a baseline, then adjust up or down based on your weight as follows: Rider Weight Adjustment from Baseline Under 120 lbs 35 PSI lower 120150 lbs Use baseline 150175 lbs 35 PSI higher 175+ lbs 58 PSI higher Start with the tire width table above, then shift up or down based on your weight.Step 3: Buy a Decent Pressure GaugeBefore messing with your tire pressure, make sure you actually own a decent pressure gauge. Most of us (myself included) are guilty of using our hands as a pressure gauge. We squeeze the sidewalls of our tire to gauge if we have enough air.While doing this is okay in a pinch, if youre really committed to dialing in your tire pressure, you should use an actual pressure gauge. Youve probably also noticed that the gauge on your tire pump is worthless. It will get you in the ballpark but can be off by as much as 25%. Not great for accuracy.I recommend using a digital pressure gauge. (I use and like the Topeak Smartgauge*). This will give you a super accurate reading and allow you to figure out the exact pressure you prefer within 1-2 psi.For the best results, always use the same gauge. That way even if it isnt super accurate, youre always inflating your tires to the same baseline pressure.Step 4: Adjust for Trail Conditions And TerrainWhere youre riding and what the current conditions are like should also affect your choice of tire pressure. Riding rocky, rooty terrain? Lower your pressure. Riding smooth, buff trail? Bump it up a little.Even when riding the same trails, your tire pressure may change a bit from one day to the next. The lower your tire pressure, the better your traction, so let out a little pressure for snow, ice, or mud.Finally, air pressure drops at elevation, so if youre driving to the mountains, make sure to check your PSI when you get to the trailhead, not in your garage at home.Step 5: Factor In Your SetupThe tire pressure you should run has a lot to do with the tire itself (and the rim it is mounted on). The biggest factor will be whether or not you have tubeless tires, but thats already reflected in the cheat sheet above.The width of your rim and the width of the tire also play a role. The wider the rim and the wider the tire, the lower the tire pressure that you can get away with. This is one of the reasons that wider tires have become so popular. They allow you to get away with a much lower tire pressure than you would be able to on a traditional cross-country style tire.Also, consider the construction of the tire. Tires with higher TPIs (threads per inch) should be run at a lower pressure than tires with a lower TPI. Finally, if youre running tire inserts like CushCore, you can typically go even lower with your pressure (sometimes 35 PSI lower than youd otherwise run). Inserts add structure and rim protection, so the tire itself doesnt have to do as much work. Check your specific inserts recommendations as a starting point.#5) Experiment And Fine TuneThe moral of all this? Dont be afraid to play around with your tire pressure! Bring your gauge and a pump to the trailhead. Heck, you can even bring your gauge out on the trail and experiment.If youre really serious about testing out your tire pressure, set up a little course and experiment with different pressures. Start with the maximum pressure listed on your sidewall and time yourself. Next time, let out a few PSI and time yourself again. Repeat until you stop making time gains or until the tire starts feeling squirmy.Also, remember: tire pressure isnt just about going faster. When you experiment with tire pressure, pay attention to what FEELS good to you. Where do you feel like you have enough traction? How much plushness do you prefer? What tire pressure makes you feel confident riding over obstacles? Practice until its perfect.You can also play around with running different pressures in the front and rear tires. The front tire receives less weight distribution than the rear so you can usually get away with running a little lower pressure in the front tire. Try running the front at 3 PSI less than the rear and see how that feels.Signs Your Tire Pressure Is Too HighPoor traction, skidding in corners and when brakingHarsh, uncomfortable rideSigns Your Tire Pressure Is Too LowHitting the rimPinch flatsLack of stability in cornersAbout the Manufacturers Recommended Tire PressureIf you look at the sidewall of your tires, youll notice a recommended tire pressure range from the manufacturer. This is a legal thing and shows what they consider the max pressure and the min pressure. If you put too much pressure in a tire, it could blow off the rim. Too little pressure and you can damage the rim.While your ideal tire pressure is likely within this range, its okay to experiment outside of it as well. While its unlikely that your ideal tire pressure is higher than the maximum pressure, it could be lower. Smaller and more petite women who dont weight much are often better served by a lower tire pressure. At 120 pounds, I personally often run my tires at a few PSI lower than the recommended pressure listed on my tires.More Stuff You Might LikeHow To Refresh Tubeless Tire Sealant9 Ways To Increase Your Confidence On The Mountain BikeWomens MTB Clinics, Camps, & Events About The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post Mountain Bike Tire Pressure: How to Find the Right PSI appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Need to remove the pedals from your bike (or put new ones on), but not sure how to do it?No fear: this is one of the easiest bike how tos out there. A few minutes, some simple tools, and a little elbow grease is all you need. Ill walk you step-by-step through the process so that youll have your pedals off in no time.Tools Needed:A pedal wrench* (preferred) or 8mm hex wrench*Bike *g*rease* (if youre installing new pedals or putting your pedals back on)Time Required5 minutes or lessDifficulty LevelBeginnerVideo TutorialStep 1: Shift Your Bike to The Largest ChainringHave a work stand? Mount your bike in the workstand to make life a little easier. Dont have a work stand? Thats ok. Simply lean your bike against a wall, or better yet, have a friend hold it steady for you. If you have several chain rings up front, shift to the largest one. If you have only one chain ring, you can skip this step.All were trying to do here is avoid the chance that your hand or arm could slip and get cut on the big chainring. If your chain is covering the chainring, theres an added element of protection.Step 2: Use The Pedal Wrench or Hex Wrench to Loosen the PedalsThe easiest and most common way to remove bike pedals is with a pedal wrench. Im going to first explain how to use it, and then Ill explain removal using a hex wrench.The pedal wrench and crank arm are less than 90 degrees apartWith the pedal wrench, place the wrench on the part of the pedal that screws into the crank arm. You want it so that the wrench and the crankarm are at 90 degrees or less. This will give you proper leverage. Grip the opposite crank. If you are removing the right pedal, hold the left crank arm steady. Turn the wrench BACKWARD away from the handlebars and toward your saddle. This holds true for both the right and left pedals. The righty-tighty, lefty-loosey thing doesnt work on pedals.If you dont have a pedal wrench, you can use an 8mm hex wrench (also called an Allen wrench). Put the shorter side of the wrench into the back of the pedal. FIRMLY grip the opposite crankarm. Again, youll want to turn the wrench toward the back of the bike, not toward the handlebars.Removing pedals with a hex wrenchWhichever tool youre using, give the pedal three or four turns into it is nice and loose. Step 3: Unscrew the Pedals with your Fingers Until They Come OffOnce youve loosened the pedals, you can simply use your fingers to continue unscrewing them all of the way.(Optional) Step 4: Grease the Pedal Threads and Install ThemAssuming you are putting the pedals on a different bike, or putting new pedals on the same bike, youll essentially reverse the instructions I just gave you.BUT FIRST, make sure to lightly apply some bike grease onto the threads (the part that screws in). This will make it easier to take off the pedals the next time you need too. Apply bike grease to the threads before installing the pedalThen, simply begin to screw the pedals into the crankarm. This time, you will want to turn the pedals FORWARD toward the handelbars to tighten. Tighten as much as you can with your fingers and then tighten them using either a pedal wrench or an 8mm hex wrench. Tada, you did it! Not too hard, right?More Stuff You Might LikeYour Guide To Bike Maintenance (Conquer The Fear!)How to Clean Your Bike in Five Easy Steps!How To Set Up Tubeless Tires On Your BikeAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post How To Remove Bike Pedals appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

The best commuter bike is often the bike you already have. Maybe its an old mountain bike with flat tires sitting in the back of the garage. Or, it might be a road bike that gets more use around town than it does on the race course.Im a big fan of commuter bikes that arent too fancy because theyre usually locked up in a high-theft urban area so you dont want to attract too much attention (or, be too sad if it gets stolen). That said, you do want a bike thats functional. In this article, I share 7 upgrades you can make to any old bike to make it an excellent commuter.#1: Add some new tiresThe best bang for your bike is generally a new pair of tires. The best commuter tires are sturdier than regular road-bike tires and slicker than mountain bike tires. They should be able to roll fast on pavement and handle a little dirt or gravel in case you want to incorporate a rail-trail or canal path to your commute.Before buying, make sure to know what diameter your wheels are (26, 700cc, etc) and buy tires that match that wheel size. If youre not sure, most wheels will have the diameter listed on the rim, or your current tires might have the size listed (i.e. 262.0, 700cx35). The first number refers to the wheel diameter and the second number refers to the width of the tire.#2: Mount lights front and rear.Whether or not you plan on riding in the dark, you should add some commuter lights to your bike. Eventually, the day will come where you end up staying later at work than intended or youll spend more time than you planned at happy hour. Even if you are riding around sunrise or sunset, lights can help in low-light conditions. You want both a bright, front headlight and a bright, flashing rear light.The best commuter lights are BRIGHT, affordable, and have long battery life. Read: 7 Best Bike Lights To Keep You Safe In The Dark#3: Screw on some fenders.If you live somewhere with rainy (or snowy) conditions, fenders are a must. Also known as mudguards, they will help keep you from getting wet and muddy on your commute and make things much more enjoyable.If your bike has eyelets on the frame, you can install sturdy, traditional-style full fenders. These will provide the most protection and coverage but are a little heavier and more expensive. For bikes without eyelets, you can use clip-on fenders. These wont keep you quite as clean and dry but are better than nothing. Theyre also cheap, lightweight, and can be added in a jiffy.#4: Throw on a rear rack and panniers.Most newbie commuters wear a backpack, which is fine. But when your shoulders start to ache, youre sick of having a sweaty back, or you want to carry bigger, heavier loads, switch to a rear rack and panniers (or trunk bag) instead. Good panniers are waterproof and can carry everything you might need for your work day: a laptop, spare clothes, and even a gallon of milk on the way home.Again, the type of rack you can install is largely dependent on whether or not your bicycle frame has eyelets. If it does, you can buy a traditional frame-mounted rack and install it to the eyelets. If not, youll need a rack that clamps onto your seatpost.#5: Replace Brake Pads And Chain (If Needed)If your bike has been sitting in the garage for a while, make sure to check both the drivetrain and brakes. (If you dont know how to do that, take it to the shop or watch some YouTube videos). Often, some new brake pads and a new chain can give an old bike a major upgrade. Riding long distances to work and thru traffic will be both safer and more enjoyable if your bike is in good working order.#6: Have more fun with a bell.A bell not only looks cute and provides a little fun, its also super helpful if you are riding in congested areas such as on bike paths. Ring your bell to let pedestrians and slower riders know that you want to pass on the left.#7: Upgrade your saddle.If your saddle (bike seat) isnt comfortable, this should be one of the first things to be replaced. Youd be amazed how much more enjoyable your work commute is if you saddle fits YOU. Either head to a good shop that can let you test some out, or pick one off our list of our favorite womens saddles.More Articles To Help With Your CommuteThe Ultimate Guide to Bike Commuting (for Women)The Best Commuter Bikes for WomenAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post 7 Upgrades to Convert Any Bicycle To A Commuter Bike appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

The Fox Rampage is a low-profile, lightweight, and affordable full-face helmet mountain bike helmet. In fact, it is both one of the cheapest ASTM-F1952 certified helmets on the market and one of the lightest.While its not a womens specific helmet, it is a great option for ladies that are petite or those looking for a lighter-weight full-face lid.I had the opportunity to test the Fox Rampage at the Whistler Bike Parkarguably the best place in the world to put a full face helmet through the paces. Spoiler: I was a fan. But read on to find out why.Review in a NutshellPros:LightweightAffordableASTM-F1952 certificationRemovable, washable padsCons:Low profile provides less protection than more robust full-face helmetsPrice: $259Buy at Amazon.comBuy at FoxRacing.comAffordable But Still Meets Critical Safety StandardsThe biggest reason to buy the Fox Rampage is the price. It is one of the cheapest full-face helmets on the market that meets the ASTM-F1952 standard.For those who arent familiar, this certification means that the helmet is safe for downhill use and should be the minimum standard for choosing a lid for true downhill use. Not all full-face helmets have this certification, by the way, and most that do are far more expensive than the Rampage.It also meets the NTA-8776 E-bike helmet certification make it great for anybody moving at high speeds, whether thats on an e-bike or just riding downhill. Adjustable visorThe visor on the Fox Rampage adjusts via a screw on the underside of the visor. Loosen the screw and slide the visor up or down. Although the visor provides a good range of adjustability, it is a bit awkward to try to adjust on the fly or with bike gloves on. I found that I needed to actually take the helmet off to adjust the visor.The visor itself is smaller than many other DH helmets. This could be an issue if you are riding in particularly sunny environments, but under tree-cover at the Whistler bike park, I never noticed any sun glare or other issues with the small profile.Low profileCompared to bigger, bulkier downhill-helmets, the Fox Rampage has a low profile. While this is nice in terms of comfort and even attractiveness, it does mean that the helmet offers less protection in the event of a serious crash. If you are riding well within your limits in the bike park (like me), this may not be an issue. On the other hand, if you are pushing hard and going big, I would choose a helmet with more coverage. The Rampage certainly isnt the helmet for the Red Bull Rampage.If youre looking for something more robust, opt to spend a bit more and choose the Fox Proframe instead.LightweightAt a mere 1,130 grams, the Fox Rampage is reasonably lightweight for a full face helmet. This is one of the reasons we think the Rampage is a top-pick for women who tend to be more petite and need a lighter helmet than their bulkier male counterparts.PaddingThe padding inside the Rampage is soft and comfortable. It is also removable which means that you can throw the pads in the wash once theyve gotten sweaty which is a huge plus. The pads are soft and covered in synthetic suede fabric that feels soft and velvety on your cheeks. That said, they dont do a fantastic job of wicking sweat and tend to get a bit wet on really hot days.VentilationCompared to a convertible enduro helmet like the Bell Super Air, the Fox Rampage has severely limited airflow and ventilation. Compared to other ASTM certified helmets, however, the ventilation and breathability are perfectly average.There are 11 vent holes, and the breathing hole a the front of the helmet provides good airflow as well. Despite wearing the helmet on a 90-degree day, I felt reasonably comfortable inside the helmet.BuckleThe Fox Rampage helmet has a D-Ring buckle that does a great job of staying tight, but is somewhat difficult to thread especially with bike gloves on. I found that I had to take off my gloves to get the helmet on or off, but the more I practiced the easier it got.SizingThe Rampage comes in 4 sizes to fit a wide range of head sizes. i appreciate the smaller sizing, which makes the Rampage more likely to fit smaller women riders than some other brands. With a 55cm sized head, I fit inside a size small comfortably.All-day comfortI recently tested the Fox Rampage helmet during a 9-hour, 90-degree day at the Whistler bike park, and can happily report that the helmet remained comfortable even throughout a long, HOT day. I attribute this to the fact that the helmet is neither too heavy or bulky. Since Im not hitting any massive features, I would choose the Rampage over other more beefy helmets just for this comfort factor.Bottom-LineIf you are looking for an affordable and lightweight helmet for occasional bike park riding, the Fox Rampage is a top pick. It is significantly cheaper than other ASTM lids, and offers superior safety compared to a convertible helmet like the Bell Super Air.It does not offer the same level of protection as some other DH lids, so for ladies who like to go big, pick a more expensive helmet. For women who are sticking to blue runs at the bike park, however, the Fox Rampage will provide more than enough helmet at an unbeatable price.About The ReviewerKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post Fox Rampage Full Face Mountain Bike Helmet Review appeared first on Femme Cyclist.