Waze app users can see the location of cyclists using Garmin Edge computers and smartwatches in a bid to improve awareness and road safety but will enough drivers and cyclists use it to make a difference?

The 2027 season will soon begin, unofficially, in Spain. All World Tour teams will gather to begin serious preparations into the upcoming season and amongst them are Netcompany INEOS, who have signed nine new riders into their 2027 block - so far. One of them is Harold Tejada, a rider with immense p...

British steel bike brand Temple Cycles is to close 12 years after its launch, with founder Matt Mears telling investors "I no longer believe the current model offers a realistic route to a sustainable business".Mears, who started Temple in 2014 after graduating from the University of Bristol, wrote to investors by email this week, explaining the decision to wind down the business in its current form.Temple reportedly crowdfunded 1.35 million in 2022, and Mears told investors he didn't expect to be able to return any of that money. However, he explained to BikeRadar today that they would be offered a stake in a new online-only parts and accessories business.Mears said the "lion's share" of the company's staff have been made redundant, with its showrooms in Bristol and London closing, but that all outstanding customer orders have been fulfilled."Our shareholders backed Temple and put their trust in us," Mears wrote in an email to BikeRadar. "Im sorry that the original business hasnt delivered the outcome we hoped for. Offering them a stake in the new company is an important part of how we want to move forward."Our final push" The Electric II ebike was released earlier this year. Temple Cycles Temple launched the Electric II ebike in June after releasing the Classic Disc flat-bar commuter bike, and opening a new high street store and workshop in Bristol in April.However, Mears said in his email to investors that while the new ebike had been successful, ultimately the brand had been unable to survive what he called "an exceptionally difficult time to run a bicycle business".In the email, initially reported by Bristol 24/7, Mears wrote: You put your money and trust into Temple and Im very sorry that the business hasnt delivered the outcome we hoped for. I know this is disappointing news.After citing rising costs, supply chain issues and pressure on consumer spending, alongside a culture of heavy discounting, Mears wrote: This year was intended to be our final push to return to profitability. Despite these efforts, we havent achieved the recovery we needed."He continued: The business also has existing debt commitments, and I dont see a realistic route to generating the profits and cash reserves needed to meet them.Taken together, I no longer believe the current model offers a realistic route to a sustainable business. The brand's range included the Adventure Disc II gravel bike. Max Perry / Our Media Based just south of Bristol, Temple built all its bikes from Reynolds steel from "100% recycled sources", prioritising longevity and sustainability.The Temple range included the Classic city bike, the Road 1 and Road 2, the Adventure Disc gravel range and its electric bikes.The brand also had a store and workshop on Brick Lane in London.Im deeply grateful to the people who have worked at Temple," Mears told BikeRadar. "Their skill, care and commitment shaped the business, and Im very sorry that we havent been able to preserve those jobs. I also recognise the impact of the liquidation on our creditors and shareholders.

Get more miles in and feel better on the trails with these simple nutrition tips

Jonas Vingegaard has been warned against defending his Giro d'Italia title in 2027, with former professional Lars Bak fearing another Italian campaign could hamper his preparations to challenge Tadej Pogacar at the Tour de France. Bak suspects this year's Giro left the Dane with insufficient time to...

With cold and wet weather looming, Prologo has just dropped a reshaped their neoprene glove the Drop 01 to keep your hand protected in some of the toughest weather conditions to keep riding. Around freezing on wet roads and trails always seems like the hardest time to keep my hand warm, so I tried out the new Drop gloves. They arent perfect neoprene never really is in my book but for a few hours in cold & damp conditions, my fingers did stay comfortably warm.Prologo Drop 01 waterproof neoprene autumn/winter gloves(All photos/Cory Benson)Prologos second-generation neoprene gloves have been refined together with Bahrain Victorious WorldTour team cyclists to offer better protection from the elements when the weather is miserable.Whats new is a more rubbery 3mm neoprene that offers great grip, more anatomic shaping for good road bar fit, and longer coverage to keep wind and water out of your sleeves. Plus, they get wider, flat heat-sealed seams to improve durability and make sure cold water stays out. Prologo describes the 3mm material as relatively thin, but thats still thicker than many other neoprene cycling gloves.The new construction has also been designed to meet the demands of both road and off-road cycling, where keeping hands protected and functional is essential for maintaining precise control of the handlebars and bike controls.First Impressions How do they feel?Im always a bit leery of neoprene gloves, I kinda have a love:hate relationship with them. Ive often struggled to find their best use case even though I ride a lot in the cold and in the wet. So, seeing Prologo had a new take on theirs, I was curious to put them to the test.Three things were most notable to me: the long narrow cuff of the Drop 01, their stitched & oversealed seams, and the relatively thick 3mm neoprene.The cuff is 4cm longer than the previous neoprene gloves Ive regularly worn and longer than Prologos original Drop. That did make them a little trickier to stretch on, and quite a bit more difficult to take off after a long ride with sweaty hands. It did mean great overlap with my various jackets, but also interfered with wearing any type of watch while riding with these.Doubling up stitching and wide heat-sealing the seams feels like a good choice, though. Ive used stitched-only and thinly welded-only gloves before, and neither survived more than a couple of seasons because of the abuse of roughly pulling them on and off when wet. Ive only used these for a couple of weeks now. But I feel pretty good that they seem to be much more durable than most.But really its the thicker neoprene than Im used to that makes the biggest difference. A bit of good and bad, thoughThicker neoprene is warmer, but limits movementIve spent more time wearing thinner 2-2.5mm neoprene gloves, which often werent quite warm enough for me. The Prologo Drop 01 with 3mm thickness is noticeably warmer and feels more structured. As for real-world usability, the extra insulation does a lot to keep my hands comfortable in the cold. Ive ridden these in the dry down to -2C so far, on wet trails from 0-5C, and in the rain on the groad at around 7C. All three times, my hands were put into the gloves dry & warm, and then stayed comfortable for 2+ hours. All three times though, my fingers and palms were wet from sweat, wrinkled like I just got out of a long bath at the end of the ride. I call that the accepted casualty of wearing neoprene. (And you really need a boot dryer to dry these out after any ride!)My real trouble though, is the limited anatomic curve of the new Drop 01 gloves. The pre-shape is one of their best features, and apparently a bit of improvement over the previous generation. But unfortunately, still a sticking point for me. While they work pretty well when sitting on the hoods of a road or gravel bike, gripping a round bar was actually quite a lot of work. Riding a mountain bike on frosty trails, my hands literally got tired from forcing the fingers of the glove to wrap all the way around a thin round grip. And I relished the long climbs where I could release my grip and just rest my hands on the bar.In the drops on the gravel bike, it was a lot better. Which is not surprising, since these were developed with WorldTour road riders. But off-road riders could also surely benefit. And yet, theyre still not quite perfect.Unsurprisingly, best on dropbarsLeaning on the hoods, the Drop 01 gloves fit nicely over the controls. And it didnt require much effort to wrap my two middle fingers behind the brake levers. Sitting on the tops on climbs was also fine. But riding in the drops (or even on the hoods over rough sections) for longer periods needed a lot more force to fully wrap around, gripping the bar. At first, the extra effort to fight against the structure of the anatomic curve felt minimal. But after a long ride, my hands were noticeably tired. My guess is that if I ride in them enough, my hands will actually get stronger. Thats training, right?But my hope is that I dont have enough cold & wet rides in a row to ever fully strength-train my hands. If only Prologo had made the anatomic curve of the hand more closed (possibly on all but the index/braking fingers), maybe that would have reduced hand strain? Or maybe a thinner neoprene material on the palm-side for flexibility, and thicker on the back of the hand (and outside of the fingers for warmth?In any case, Ill still now reach to these new neoprene gloves for wet and cold riding this winter both on road & off. And maybe Ill come out with stronger hands by springtime?Tech Details3mm neoprene for insulation and waterproofingextra-long cuff to ensure overlap under a rain jacketanatomically (partially) pre-curved shape to wrap your handlebarflat, heat-sealed seams4 sizes available (S-XL)132g actual weight (size L)Prologo Drop 01 gloves Pricing, availability & suitable weather conditionsThe new Prologo Drop 01 neoprene gloves sell for 55, and come in four sizes (S-XL). The same price and size range as the previous generation.Prologo recommends the new gloves to keep your hands warm down to -5C/23F in mostly dry conditions, or down to around 10C/50F in constant rain. Of course, how warm your fingers get can be a pretty subjective feeling. But my personal experience so far in wet, but not rainy, sub-freezing temps, suggests that I could probably stay comfortable at least a few C colder than that range. Your own results may vary.Get them now directly from Prologo online, or through their dealer bikeshop network.Prologo.it

The Enve SES 4.5 Pro was the wheelset of choice for Tadej Pogacar and the UAE Team EmiratesXRG throughout the 2025 season, helping him win another Tour de France, several Monuments, and the rainbow jersey. But how does it fare away from the glare of the WorldTour?ENVE wheels have always drawn envy from those who don't have themFuture - Andy TurnerThe small 'Pro' denotation is subtleFuture - Andy TurnerDesign detailsThe pinnacle of Enves line-up, the SES 4.5 Pro is positioned as a 'do-it-all' wheelset, but it isn't recommended for use on cobbles. By Enves own admission, it's better suited to climbing, so much so that it doesn't offer a Pro version of the 3.4 wheelset. Given the speeds that professionals now race up mountains, a lightweight wheel with a heavy focus on aerodynamics makes plenty of sense.Part of the design brief was to specifically meet the demands of the professional peloton. For this reason, the rim has been narrowed to a 23.5mm internal width and 30.8mm external (30mm rear) width, while the depth remains 49/55mm front and rear to optimise the wheels for 28mm tyres, which are often the choice for pro road races. Another demand from the pros was a hooked rim to provide more security for the tyres, even if this does add a little weight due to more carbon at the bead. However, the wheels weigh a very respectable 1,378g on my scales, including valves, lock rings, and tape. The rims are differing depths as has been common with ENVE wheels for a long whileFuture - Andy TurnerThe front is also slightly more U shaped while the rear is more V but it's subtleFuture - Andy TurnerOverall, this new rim saves 50g over the previous one while improving aerodynamic performance. Only 0.25 W separates the new 4.5 Pro from the previous 4.5, but it adds weight savings at both 32- and 48kph, and apparently beats all the named competition. Its worth bearing in mind these tests were done on an Enve Melee frame with Enve tyres which may be further optimised to the Enve rims. The rims themselves use a new process of manufacturing, what Enve describes as a rim laminate using higher modulus, lower areal weight carbon fiber along with lightweight rim graphics. Most interesting, to me anyway, is the new hub system: the Ultralight Pro Innerdrive Hubset with Pro Ceramic Bearings. They now come in a very attractive raw silver to match the spokes and shave 60g from the standard Innerdrive hubs. The 42mm ratchet is oversized to provide a larger contact area and reduce the risk of tooth damage. A waved internal washer provides what Enve calls Perfect Preload, where the preload is set at the factory and can dynamically adjust over the hub's lifespan. Bold claims, and unfortunately I didnt have the wheels long enough to test this, but it's an interesting concept. I like that the wheels don't have a wholly matte finishFuture - Andy TurnerMeanwhile the new Pro hubs look fantastic paired with the alloy spokesFuture - Andy TurnerLockrings are supplied, often not with high end wheels, although they are rather basicFuture - Andy TurnerThe spokes are still alloy (Alpina Ultralite Aero R5), rather than carbon. This means they still use 24 straight-pull spokes front and rear, with a 1:1 ratio and two-cross lacing. Lockrings, rim tape, and tubeless valves are included with the wheels, while silver or white decals are optional at purchase. Shimano HG, SRAM XDR, and Campagnolo N3W hubs are all options and can be swapped out easily. PerformanceSetting the wheels up was easy. They come pre-taped, with valves and lock rings as well, which is not a given even with high-end performance wheelsets. I was shipped an XDR hub, but Shimano later sent an HG, and switching them over was straightforward. I ran the wheels with Continental Archetype tyres as they are designed for these rims. The 30mm width measured 30mm on the wheels and sat flush with the rim.To really give these wheels a thorough test, Ive been using them across two different bikes and racking up plenty of both race and training miles. First, on a Tavelo Arow road bike, and then on a Seka ExAero GR gravel bike. I have to say that the wheels have proved rather transformative for both frames in terms of overall performance.More subtle Pro logoingFuture - Andy TurnerThe Archectype tyres fit very well on these rims giving a great interface Future - Andy TurnerFitted to the Seka for training and general riding, I've seen a tangible increase in my average speeds compared to shallower-section offerings and even some other solid aero wheels like the Vision Metron SL 60. The biggest upgrade is the impeccable handling in crosswinds. Its been particularly windy recently, and running deep section wheels in a wide-clearance gravel frame sometimes results in greater buffeting from the wind at the front. But not with the Enves, which have proved incredibly stable during these blustery conditions. The SES 4.5 Pros have also felt incredibly responsive to my input, so much so that I initially felt some skittishness, but it settled very quickly. Corrections come promptly when cornering or avoiding holes in the road, without any sense of instability. Part of the agility and responsiveness comes from the Innerdrive Pro hub system. The oversized ratchet system has a good degree of engagement, with the larger size providing a rapid bite without any chance of slipping. The light-action spring appears to work well too, without feeling draggy. Ceramic bearings are included as standard, and it certainly does help given the wheels are always turning regardless of pedalling input.Stiffness is another area where these wheels perform well. Ive been doing the odd bit of Strava KOM hunting, and on one ride I tackled a 15% average incline, 90-second segment. Ive done it dozens of times but never broken into the top-10. But this time, equipped with the SES 4.5 Pros, I took the KOM by a solid margin. It wont all be down to the wheels, but the liveliness and efficient power transfer they provide really do result in a very connected sensation with the road. This is achieved with no harshness, in part because Enve refused to switch from alloy to carbon spokes, resulting in a more balanced wheelset that delivers consistent force distribution through the rim, spokes, and hub. I'm personally a fan of the alloy spokes, both for longevity and wheel balanceFuture - Andy TurnerMore spokes hasn't harmed the aero performance eitherFuture - Andy TurnerThe staunch refusal to move to carbon spokes means the wheels aren't as lightweight as some competitors, but for the ride feel and control you get in return, I think thats worth the small weight penalty. On short, steep climbs; longer, more gradual ones; and long, steep ones like the Tumble in South Wales, the wheels have never felt hefty, even compared to wheels Ive tested that are 100-150g lighter with a similar profile. My one gripe is that with TPU inner tubes fitted, the valve does rattle around a bit, so Id recommend a bit of valve tape to prevent this.Of course these are race wheels, so rather than using them only for 30-34kph average-speed road rides, Ive also tested them in some UK road races. Racing a 130km National B event, these wheels really came alive. The average speed for the race was 46kph, with around 100m elevation gain for every 10km, so it could certainly be described as a rolling course. Whether holding pace up the climbs or trying to bridge across to a break at 60kph on the flat, the wheels felt fantastic. While these speeds lend themselves more to 60-65mm deep rims, such as the new Enve 6.7 Pro, the lighter weight and responsiveness, paired with a shallower rim for control in crosswinds, really do make the SES 4.5 Pro wheels a true do-it-all set.On this black and silver colourway the wheels look superbFuture - Andy TurnerEqually they don't look out of place on a gravel bikeFuture - Andy TurnerAre the wheels another sign that Enve is focused on pursuing a race-specific market? Tyre clearance on the new Enve Melee V2 has been reduced, with the bike aimed more towards those who race. In the Pro series wheel line-up, the approach is similar: a narrower rim profile than the SES line, plus a hook for added security and the higher pressures used when racing on very smooth tarmac. Whereas the Enve SES wheels are designed for 32mm tyres and wider, the SES 4.5 Pros are suggested to be paired with 27-28mm. I wont go into the rolling resistance argument, as its been done to death, but for smooth roads and racing, 28-30mm works very well. Professionals are notorious for wanting the bike to 'feel' a certain way. I always liked a bike to feel a little on rails, and have that agility that wider tyres at lower pressures just dont have. Additionally, 28mm tyres with sealant will have a significantly lower rotating mass than 30-32mm tyres with adequate sealant. For rapid accelerations from the bunch, or up a climb, rotational mass at the exterior of the wheel has a big impact on the power required to accelerate them. So although the Pro wheels may look like a step backwards in terms of internal rim width I see them as a step toward components specifically aimed at racing pros. Its not a bad thing; I think these are better wheels for racing, and I wouldnt get the SES wheels for my own personal use. But for the majority of people, they would likely be better off with the standard SES range, unless they are racing 45kph regularly and dont want to use tyres wider than 28-30mm.ValueAt a penny under 4k ($3,750), they are obscenely expensive. Even the SES range of wheels from Enve is cheaper at 3,350/$2,850, but still not cheap, of course. This follows a recent run of wheel manufacturers pricing premium wheelsets well above the /$3,000 mark. Campagnolo with its Bora Ultra WTO C23, Vision Metron RS series, Scope Artech models, Syncros Capital SL Aero, and several others. I wont really count Lightweight, as this brand has always been an outlier, pricing wheels higher than any other reasonably priced brand, and /$7,000+ for wheels is a statement piece, not a performance gain. Better value options exist, of course. The No.6 52/58 are positioned as direct competitors and cost significantly less. Meanwhile, the Hunt 5AM Limitless Ti_UD, which is similar in depth, a bit wider, lighter, comes with the same accessories, and costs 1,999, so half the price. Even big mainstream brands like Shimano also have the new R9370 Dura-Ace wheelset for 2,099 / $2,970, and DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut are 2,499.98/$3,218, although those are narrower again than the Enve Pro. I have ridden a few of these wheelsets, not all of them, admittedly, and my honest opinion is that the Enve 4.5 Pro are faster than anything I have tested so far. Because of this, if I could afford it and wanted the best performance wheelset money could buy, I'd lean heavily toward them. The only similarly priced wheelset that could tempt me is the Syncros Capital SL Aero, but its one-piece design may be harder to live with than Enves easily serviceable, replaceable parts. Once a staunch hookless supporter, the professionals wanted hooks, even if just 0.5mm thick (Image credit: Future - Andy Turner)Tech specsPrice:3,999/$3,750Weight:1,378g (w/ rim tape, valves)Hubset:Ultralight Pro InnerDriveFreehub options:Shimano HG11/12, SRAM XDR, CampagnoloRim depth:49/55mm front/rearInternal rim width:23.5mmSpoke count:24/24 front/rearRim:Hooked

Eli Iserbyt is a former winner of all three cups in cyclocross; European and national titles. However, the Belgian rider - now retired from the sport - believes that whilst a lot of his value came from his performances, a lot came from his attitude - something that, in the current field, is lacking...

The Eichkatz Bumper, made in Germany by Karsten Will, is an interesting handlebar bag support that uses a Dyneema cord looped between the fork crown and the stem. Check it out hereThe post The Eichkatz Bumper Weighs a Mere 73 Grams appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

There comes a time in every dads life when he has to swallow his pride and submit to the minivan.Just kidding. I was pumped to get a minivan. My only regret is not doing it sooner. Essentially a larger version of one of the best bike vehicles ever made (the Honda Element), minivans are arguably the better choice for many families than the typical cookie-cutter SUV. What other vehicle fits 7-8 passengers plus a load of gear, full sheets of 4 x 8 plywood, can be parked in a standard garage, and gets 36mpg?One of the only negatives Ive run into so far with my new Toyota Sienna is the limited and mostly underwhelming options for a trailer hitch. For this to be a true bicycle adventure vehicle, it needs a trailer hitch. And a 2 hitch, at that.Toyota completely fails here and doesnt offer any 2 hitches from the factory, and the majority of aftermarket 2 hitches compatible with the current Sienna hang down below the bumper and reduce departure angle, leading to scraping. Theyre also rated fairly low when it comes to tongue weight.What is a tongue weight rating?The tongue weight rating is the maximum downward weight/force that a trailer hitch can withstand. When were talking about bike racks rather than towing a trailer, the entire weight of the rack + bikes must be considered in the tongue weight of the trailer hitch because theres no additional axle to support the weight. But to make it more complicated, the leverage of the bike rack sticking out from the vehicle has to be factored in as well, since this leverage can increase the force exerted on the hitch when you hit a bump. This is something thats not really talked about much with bike racks, and is usually buried deep in the manual if mentioned at all. So, I asked as many bike rack companies as I could to find what theyd recommend. So far, Thule and Kuat have replied, with Thule stating their general rule of thumb is that the tongue weight rating should be at least equal to the weight of the rack plus the weight of the bikes. Kuat states they dont set a required minimum trailer hitch class rating for their current bike racks (note that their Drop In vertical rack is not included here), but do require a Class III+ hitch for the Pivot V3 and Pivot XD. If you really want to nerd out on hitch capacity, I found this Hitch Bike Rack Calculator created by someone on reddit that factors in the distance from the hitch to give you a much better idea of how close you are to the maximum weight limit of your hitchs tongue weight rating.If youre buying a van, theres a good chance youll need to carry at least 4 bikes or more. Which means theres also a good chance youll be interested in vertical hanging racks like the Yakima HangTight 6, Thule Revert, Velocirax, etc. Most of these racks require a Class III hitch, with some like Velocirax requiring a 500lb tongue weight rating. That immediately disqualifies almost every hitch for the 4th Gen Toyota Sienna. Thats where the Torklift EcoHitch for the 2021-2027 Toyota Sienna comes in. Not only does this hitch offer a class-leading 700 lb tongue weight and 4,500lb trailer weight rating (more than the vans 3,500lb tow rating), but its mostly hidden design yields better ground clearance. The design also allows for the kick sensor for the rear liftgate of the van to still work (with a few modifications). Torklift also makes a claim that theyre the only company using a patent-pending stainless steel receiver to prevent rust.Sounds great, right? Well, there are definitely some trade-offs. First, at $427.24, it is one of the most expensive hitch options for the vehicle (you do get free shipping, though). Then theres the installation most people will probably pay to have this installed (Torklift has an authorized installer finder here), though it can be DIYd if you have the time, tools, and dont mind a few modifications to your van.Removing a crossmember?Among those modifications is a somewhat controversial one: the removal of a factory aluminum crossmember. This aluminum crossmember is designed to crush in an impact and acts as part of the bumper system. The Torklift hitch replaces this aluminum crossmember with a steel tube, which theoretically will crush less easily.According to Torklift, this aluminum crossmember is designed only to absorb energy in low-speed impacts, particularly at 2.5 mph, as mandated by 49 CFR Part 581. Theres no rule that says you cant modify this system to install a trailer hitch, and Torklift claims, There is no evidence that a properly engineered, vehicle-specific hitch like the EcoHitch compromises occupant safety in a rear-end collision. However, they also mention that [they] have not conducted full vehicle crash testing for this hitch application, and its not typical for hitch manufacturers to do so. You can read more in a reddit thread where Torklift responds here.Ultimately, what swayed me into going forward with the install is that I leave a bike rack on my car almost the entire year except for the saltiest winter months (where that stainless receiver tube should earn its keep). If a rack is installed in the hitch, it doesnt matter what that cross member is made of, since a rear-end impact will be transferred through the rack, into the hitch, and then into the vehicle, so it seems like a moot point. I know a lot of people wont leave a rack on their vehicle at all times, though, so use your own judgment based on the info above.Buy these before you start the installation:It took a while after receiving the hitch to get it installed on the van. That was partially due to my hesitation to pull apart a brand new van, but also to make sure I had everything on hand before I got started. If you want to install trailer light wiring, this is definitely the time to do it. Torklift sent their $103.35 wiring harness along with the hitch, which seemed to be the standard Curt T-Connector wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Thats important to know, because access to the installation area isnt easy if you dont have a spare tire, so the installation video I found on etrailer.com was critical. There are a few different videos, but the two you need will show how to remove a number of trim panels to get to the trailer light plug on the left side of the trunk. Im a perfectionist and wanted the completed install to look as factory as possible, so I ordered some edge trim from Amazon. There are a number of different options here, but I found that this stuff was easy-ish to install and doesnt use any adhesives, instead relying on a mechanical grip that is extremely secure once installed. You dont need much, so the 10 for $5.10 is plenty. I had most of the tools needed already, but you will need a good pair of tin snips, sockets with extensions, a torque wrench capable of 45-65 ft lbs, and a set of box-end wrenches at minimum. I also found that a Dremel tool with a plastic cutoff wheel came in handy, along with a clip removal tool and a set of auto trim removal tools. Finally, youll want a moving blanket or similar to set the bumper cover on to keep it safe, and some painters tape to protect the edges, as well as electrical tape for the sensor modification. How to install Toyota Sienna Torklift EcoHitchIncluded with the hitch are the main beam, two end plates, and a bag of hardware. Dont sweat if the mounting plates on the ends of the beam look bent on arrival; theyre supposed to be that way.Once you have all the materials to start the installation, set aside a big block of time to get this done so youre not rushing. It took me the better part of 12 hours to do the hitch, wiring harness, and mud guard installation, but I was also trying to document the process while taking breaks to do other things. Knowing what I know now, and having all this info ahead of time, I feel like I could do it again in less than 4hrs if I wasnt documenting it, but thats still a decent chunk of time. Part of what took so long is that there is no single source of installation instructions that covers everything for this particular van/hitch combination. With all due respect to Torklift, their installation videos and instructions provided with the hitch are lacking in detail, especially when it comes to modifying the kick sensor to work with the hitch. After delivery, Torklift provided an updated installation instruction guide (below), which is improved, but still different in spots compared with what Id recommend. 2021 Sienna Torklift HitchX7422S-INST(1)DownloadThe best installation video I found was actually from U-Haul, but even it has things that could be done better. U-Haul actually mentions in the comments that theyve figured out a better way to do the kick sensor installation and that there will be a follow-up video, but it doesnt seem to exist yet. I tried so many times and in different ways to reach out to them to get more information, and got zero replies.This thread on Siennachat.com was one of the better sources for info on modifying the kick sensor, and there is also an excellent PDF from bmcnally82 on page 2 with useful notes on the installation. Its worth noting that this thread was created when the EcoHitch was first introduced for the Sienna in 2021, and there are a number of comments about having to bend the studs to make it fit, or having to use washers, etc. None of this seems to be the case today, in 2026 my EcoHitch fit perfectly without any modifications to the hitch or the mounting studs needed.A better wayBut even after scouring the internet for every detail on the installation of this hitch, I still found that there were better ways to do it that required fewer permanent modifications. Starting with removing the aluminum cross member, theres no need to fully remove the metal tape covering the holes. Simply use a heat gun to warm it up, and you can peel back the corners to access the bolts. Do it this way, and you can save the crossmember in case you want to put it back to stock for some reason in the future, and you can even reuse the tape. No plans to reuse it? Doing it this way is still easier and saves time/effort. Top left image is a screenshot from the U-Haul Video; all other photos c. BikeRumorEveryone says you need to cut this tab off since it interferes with the hitch placement dont do it! Instead, make a small vertical snip (red line in the photo above, left) and then simply bend it upwards at a 90 angle. This does two things: it preserves the tab in case you ever want to go back, but it also provides a nice mounting point for a zip tie. Instead of routing the wiring harness for the kick sensor around the front of the hitch, I rerouted it under and then zip-tied it to this tab to keep it in place. Another permanent modification that is required: cutting a hole in the bumper cover. The new instructions from Torklift tell you to cut a smaller hole than before, which is more similar to what I did. I followed the guidance from the U-Hual video to use the seam as the back edge of the cut (and how to center it), and made mine just 4 1/4 wide. This provided plenty of room for any horizontal variation in the placement of the hitch (though you should have centered it before torquing it down, so wiggle room isnt really needed). As mentioned, I used the edge trim to give it a finished look, and tried to round the corners of the cut a bit to give the edge trim a better radius. I did most of the cutting with the Dremel tool and a plastic cutoff wheel, though you can do this with tin snips in a pinch. Another piece you will need to trim is the underbody panel on the left side of the van. Again, all the instructional materials I found said to make a much bigger cutout than you actually need. Most say to make it 2 wide, which causes you to lose the mounting hole to the right of the cut, which is used for one of the clips that holds this piece to the bumper cover. I found that there is no need to make this cut wider than about an inch, which preserves that mounting hole I was able to reuse all the mounting clips for the bumper cover. I couldnt stand the idea of losing clips due to the installation of this hitch, which could result in movement of the various pieces and potential noise down the road. The cut also doesnt need to be nearly as long as specified. I made mine about 4 3/4 long from the front of the panel, and that ended up about an inch longer than necessary. Theres a potential here that the hitch could be slightly shifted due to bolt/stud placement, manufacturing tolerances, etc., so my advice is to start small. Make a small cut, then install it and check the clearance. Only cut out as much as you need, and take your time. Do it this way, and youll end up with a perfect fitment without losing any of the factory mounting clips. Kick Sensor ModificationThe last permanent modification is a biggie. One of the big selling features of the EcoHitch is that the liftgate kick sensor still works with the installation of the hitch. Read the comments online, and that turns out to be partially true. Some say theirs still works fine; others say theirs doesnt work at all.This seems to come down to how the kick sensor is either repositioned or modified, as there are a number of ways to do it. The official way seems to be drilling new holes in the kick sensor and relocating it on the bumper cover above the hole you have to cut out for the hitch. However, the effectiveness of the sensor in this position seems questionable. Some owners have had luck with moving the sensor to one side of the hitch, but again, that requires drilling and modifications that may or may not be worth it.I saw a method on the SeinnaChat forum where you modified the sensor bracket to route the wires above the hole in the bumper cover, and those who tried it reported it working very well, so I figured Id give it a shot if it didnt work, I could pivot to the method where the sensor is shortened to just one side of the hitch. And if that didnt work, I could simply buy a new kick sensor. But if the first method worked (and it does), then you have a better result without any other modifications.The sensor works by transmitting a signal through these wire loops, which sit behind the bumper cover. Because of that, its very important not to cut the wires, but you can remove them from the housing and then cut the housing to fit over the hole in the bumper cover. Removing the wires from the spring-loaded tabs on the end gives you more slack, so you can move the wires out of the way, and youll also need to remove the clips holding the wires in place near the cut. I made sure to arrange the wires so that they werent overlapping and there was space between each wire, then used electrical tape to hold them in place. The result is a kick sensor that uses all of the factory mounting positions, and one that still works on both sides of the hitch. As far as I can tell, there has been zero impact on the performance of the kick sensor with this modification in fact, it might actually work too well. Make sure you dont have your key in your pocket when youre installing your racks hitch pin, or it will sense your movements and try to open the liftgate into your rack. One last thing to cut (that no one mentions)If you have a Limited or Platinum Sienna with a chrome bumper insert, you should have these tabs sticking through the bumper cover (other van trim levels may have something similar, not sure). These tabs will impact the hitch when you go to reinstall the bumper cover, so if you dont cut them, the bumper cover will stick out oddly, or even break those chrome inserts out of the bumper. Fortunately, you can cut these easily with tin snips without causing that chrome piece to fall out. They seem to be extra long to act as guides during the installation process, so you can cut them almost flush with the back of the bumper cover without affecting their function.An experimental modificationFull disclosure: I like to overthink things sometimes (OK, often), but I think this was worth the extra hassle.When you compare the stock aluminum crossmember to the steel beam from Torklift, that aluminum crossmember sticks out 5.5 from the body of the van. The steel beam from Torklift only sticks out about 3. As far as Im aware, that aluminum crossmember is all that supports the bumper cover from behind in the center, so removing it and replacing it with the Torklift hitch means there is about a 2.5 gap of unsupported space behind the cover.Watching my child jump in and out of the van and push against the bumper, I realized that having some support for that bumper cover may be important just to keep it from deforming to the point where its stressing the mounting clips, or potentially cracking the paint.So I decided to make an experimental support structure out of XPS foam to mount to the EcoHitch beam. I used a piece of 1 thick XPS, which I then used a hot knife to cut in half to give me 2.5 in total when stacked (1 + 1 + 0.5). I tried to glue this to the hitch using an adhesive that was supposedly compatible with both XPS foam and metal, but that didnt work, so I ended up just zip-tying it to the beam. This isnt structural or anything; its just to prevent the bumper cover from being pushed in too far.Installation of the bumper cover went smoothly, and it does feel like the foam is doing something to support the bumper cover when you push on it. It doesnt seem like this could hurt at all, and it was easy to do, so Id recommend it. It should go without saying, though: make any of these modifications at your own risk. The payoffWith a Kuat Piston Pro X (which is still the best hitch rack IMO) installed in the EcoHitch, there is no interference with the vehicle that Ive found so far. Mountain bikes with 800mm bars dont hit the back window; you can drop the rack with the bike on it, and the tailgate will clear the pedal and handlebar to open, and you can fold up the rack without the uprights rubbing on the tailgate. You will have to disable the Parking Support Brake (PKSB) feature to keep the van from sensing the bike rack and slamming on the brakes when reversing, but this is easily done through the menu on the steering wheel controls. Once you turn off PKSB, it will remain off, so you dont have to change this setting every time you drive.Also, to my surprise, adding a bike rack and often driving around with bikes hasnt affected the gas mileage. Im still averaging 36mpg all around without babying it, which is wild for such a big vehicle. Obviously, this is a lot of work to install a trailer hitch compared to many vehicles, which often require just a few bolts. Having done it, though, Im extremely pleased with the result. It looks great; it offers the most ground clearance (no scraping on anything yet), it offers the highest tongue weight rating, and the stainless receiver tube seems to work well with every bike rack Ive tried so far (the opening seems a little larger than most hitches, but the anti-wobble mechanisms on most bike racks keep it rock solid).Yes, there should be better installation instructions. Yes, it would be great if it required fewer modifications. But until Toyota engineers the next generation of vans with a factory 2 hitch that is ideal for todays larger bike racks and heavier e-bikes, the Torklift EcoHitch is probably the best hitch option for your 2021-2027 Toyota Sienna.torkliftcentral.com