Approaching a landmark birthday, Charlie Graham-Dixon explores how ageing affects cycling performance and what can be done to stay ahead of the curve

For so many folks I talk to, riding a bike is pure joy. Its the sense of freedom, the strength you feel as you climb a hill, and the rush of adrenaline on the way down. But when it comes to the mechanical side of things, that joy can quickly turn into frustration or even intimidation. Youre not alone if youve ever felt unsure about how your bike works or worried about walking into a bike shop and not knowing exactly what to ask for.But heres the thing: understanding the parts of your bike isnt just for mechanics or gearheadsits for every rider who wants to feel more empowered. By knowing what all the different components of your bike are and what they do, you can walk into a shop with confidence, tackle basic maintenance with ease, and even have a better sense of what upgrades or repairs your bike might need. Its about taking ownership of your ride, on and off the road.In this post, were going to break down the major parts of a bicyclefrom the wheels that grip the ground to the brakes that keep you safe, and everything in between. Whether youre a seasoned cyclist or just starting out, understanding your bikes anatomy will help you feel more connected to your bike and more confident in maintaining itso you can focus on what really matters: enjoying the ride.If youre new to biking, also make sure to check out our Beginners Guide To Cycling.Table Of ContentsParts Of A Bike FrameBike GeometryBicycle Wheel PartsBicycle Fork PartsBrake PartsDrivetrain PartsThe CockpitSaddle And SeatpostParts Of A Bike FrameThe frame is the backbone of your bike. A bike build starts with a frame and all other parts attach to it. They can be made of a wide variety of components including aluminum (the most common), steel, titanium, or carbon fiber. Top Tube: This is the horizontal bar that runs between the seat and the handlebars. It can be straight across, slightly sloped, or dramatically sloped for a step-thru type frame. When buying a new bike, this is one of the more important things to pay attention to. A longer top tube usually puts the rider in a more stretched-out, aggressive position, which can be great for speed, but potentially less comfortable for long rides. On the other hand, a shorter top tube brings you into a more upright position, ideal for endurance or more technical riding, as it offers better control and comfort.The length of the top tube will largely determine how well a bike fits. The height of the top tube also serves as the stand-over height. Your inseam needs to be slightly longer than the standover, so you can get on and off the bike comfortably.Down Tube: The tube that connects the head tube (near your handlebars) to the bottom bracket (where your pedals attach). This part sees a lot of stress, especially on mountain bikes. If a bike frame cracks, this is usually where it happens. Seat Tube: The vertical tube that supports your saddle and seat post.Head Tube: The part of the frame at the front triangle that holds the front fork.Chainstays: These run parallel to the chain, connecting the bottom bracket to the rear wheel. The length of the chain stays have an impact on how the bike performs. Shorter chainstays are great for riders who want a quick, reactive bike or more playful handling. Longer chainstays offer more stability and control.Seat Stays: These connect the seat tube to the rear wheel. Together with the chain stays, they complete what is referred to as the rear triange.Rear Shock & Pivots: On a full suspension mountain bike, youll also find a rear shock and pivots. The shock can be an air shock (most common) or a coil shock. In either case, its job is to absorb impacts from bumps, rocks, roots, and drops. This allows the rear wheel to move independently of the frame, keeping the bike more stable and comfortable on rough terrain.Many rear shocks come with a lockout feature that allows you to turn off the rear suspension, making the bike act more like a hardtail. This is especially useful for climbs or smooth sections of trail where suspension isnt necessary, as it helps conserve energy by preventing the rear shock from bobbing with each pedal stroke.The pivot design on a full-suspension bike refers to the placement and type of pivots (the rotating points where parts of the frame connect) that allow the rear triangle of the bike to move independently, in sync with the rear shock. Different pivot designs can drastically affect how the bike handles bumps, climbs, and technical terrain. There are lots of different pivot designs but some of the most common are a single pivot, Horst Link, or VPP.Bike Frame GeometryA bikes geometry and play a huge role in how the bike handles, climbs, descends, and feels overall. The two main frame angles that most riders focus on are the head tube angle and the seat tube angle, but other aspects like the bottom bracket height and wheelbase also contribute to a bikes handling.Head tube AngleThis is the angle formed between the ground and the head tube. This angle influences how the bike steers and handles, particularly at different speeds and on various types of terrain. A slacker head tube angle (lower number) means the front fork is angled farther back, which lengthens the wheelbase and makes the bike more stable at high speeds and on steep descents. A steeper head tube angle (higher number) places the front wheel more directly beneath the rider, making steering quicker and more responsive. This is common on cross-country, road, and gravel bikes where sharp, agile handling is important.Seat Tube AngleThe seat tube angle refers to the angle of the seat tube (the part of the frame that holds the seat post and saddle) in relation to the ground. This angle affects your body position on the bike and how efficiently you can pedal, especially when climbing.A steeper seat tube angle places the saddle more directly over the bottom bracket (where the pedals are), positioning the rider more forward on the bike. This is ideal for efficient pedaling, especially on climbs, because it keeps you in a better position to generate power.A slacker seat tube angle moves the saddle farther back, giving you a more relaxed riding position. This is more comfortable for long, steady rides or descending, as it shifts more weight toward the rear wheel.WheelbaseWheelbase refers to the distance between the front and rear axles. A longer wheelbase provides more stability, especially at high speeds or when descending. Its common on bikes meant for off-road riding or long-distance endurance events. A shorter wheelbase makes the bike more responsive and easier to maneuver, which is beneficial for technical climbs, tight corners, or city streets.ReachReach is the horizontal distance from the bottom bracket to the handlebars. On bikes with aggressive geometries, like mountain or gravel bikes designed for rough terrain, a longer reach gives riders more room to move around the bike, improving control when descending or tackling technical features. A shorter reach is preferable on commuter and recreational bikes, providing a more upright, relaxed position that prioritizes comfort over performance.Bottom Bracket HeightThe bottom bracket height (the distance from the bottom bracket to the ground) affects the bikes stability and performance. A lower bottom bracket lowers the riders center of gravity, improving cornering and stability, while a higher bottom bracket gives better clearance over obstacles.Parts Of A Bicycle WheelRim: The outer edge of the wheel, typically made of aluminum or carbon, which holds your tire. If the wheel is set up tubeless, the rim will also be lined with rim tape.Spokes & Spoke Nipples: Spokes connect the rim to the hub and provide the wheel with strength and stability. The number and pattern of spokes can impact how stiff or compliant your wheel feels. Spoke nipples are small, threaded components that sit at the rim of a bicycle wheel and connect the spokes to the rim. They allow you to adjust spoke tension, which is essential for keeping the wheel true (straight) and maintaining the overall strength and balance of the wheel.Hub: At the center of the wheel, the hub houses the axle and bearings, allowing the wheel to spin. The rear wheel also has a part called a freehub. It connects to the cassette, which is the cluster of gears on the back of your bike. When you pedal, the freehub engages, transferring the power from your legs to the rear wheel, propelling you forward. When you stop pedaling, the internal ratchets disengage, allowing the wheel to spin freely.Tires: Your connection to the ground, tires come in a variety of widths, treads, and rubber compounds depending on your ride. Wider tires with aggressive tread are best for mountain biking, giving more grip on dirt and rocks, while thinner, smoother tires are ideal for road cycling. They may be tubeless OR have an inner tube that holds air.Tire Valve: This allows you to inflate and deflate your tires. Its essentially the gateway for air entering and leaving the inner tube (on tubed tires) or the tire itself (on tubeless tires). There are two main types of valves found on bicycles: Presta and Schrader.Axle: The axle is the central shaft that holds your bikes wheels in place and allows them to spin. The design of the axle is crucial for the overall stability of the bike and directly affects how secure the wheels are. There are two main types of axles found on bikes: quick-release axles and thru-axles.The quick-release axle was the standard for decades, and can still be found, especially on an entry-level and commuter bikes. It consists of a thin metal skewer with a lever that allows you to easily remove and reinstall the wheels without using any tools.Thru-axles are now the standard on modern mountain bikes, gravel bikes, and many road bikes. Theyre thicker and more robust than quick-release axles, providing a stronger, more rigid connection between the wheel and the frame or fork. This added stiffness helps improve handling and stability, especially in high-performance riding.Rotor: Bikes with disc brakes will have a rotor mounted to the wheel. Learn more about this under bicycle brake parts.Parts Of A Bike ForkYour fork is essential for steering AND absorbing vibration bumps. On commuter and road bikes, the fork is rigid (meaning there is no suspension). Higher end rigid forks are made out of carbon which does a better job of absorbing vibration than alloy.On a mountain bike, and some gravel bikes, the fork has suspension to absorb impacts from rocks, roots, and drops. The amount of travel a suspension fork has refers to the amount of movement (in millimeters) that the fork allows when it compresses. Steerer tube: A steerer tube is the part of a bicycles fork that runs through the head tube of the frame and connects to the handlebars via the stem.Blades: The two prongs of the fork that extend down to the front wheel. Crown: The part of the fork where the steerer tube meets the blades.Dropouts: The slots at the end of the fork blades where the front wheel attaches. Stanchions: These are the upper, usually shiny, inner tubes of the suspension fork. These tubes slide in and out of the lower legs of the fork when the suspension compresses and rebounds. High-quality stanchions are often coated with materials like anodized aluminum or even Kashima coating for smoother movement and durability.Fork Lowers: The lowers hold the stanchions, and as the fork compresses, the stanchions slide into these tubes. They also provide the mounting points for disc brake calipers and the axle that holds the front wheel.Spring: The spring is the part of the fork that compresses and provides the suspensions bounce. There are two main types of springs: air (most common) or coil.Bicycle Brake PartsYour brakes are the most important safety feature on your bike. Whether youre tackling steep descents on your mountain bike or navigating traffic on your commuter, knowing how your brakes work is essential.Levers: Located on the handlebars, these control the brake system. Pulling the lever actuates the brakes via cables or hydraulic lines.Cables or Hydraulic Lines: These connect the brake levers to the actual brake system. Hydraulic lines are typically found on high-end bikes (especially mountain bikes) and offer more precise, powerful braking.Calipers: These are the mechanisms that squeeze the brake pads against the wheel rim (rim brakes) or brake rotor (disc brakes) to slow the bike down.Brake Pads: The part that makes contact with the rim or rotor to create friction and stop your bike. Rotors: If you have disc brakes, these are the metal discs that sit in the middle of the wheel and provide a surface for the brake pads to grip. The larger the rotor, the more stopping power you get.Drivetrain PartsThe drivetrain of a bicycle is the system that transfers your pedaling power to the rear wheel, making the bike move. It consists of several key components, each playing an essential role in converting your energy into forward motion. CranksetThe crankset includes the crank arms and chainrings (gears) attached to them. The crank arms are the levers that connect to the pedals, and the chainrings are the circular gears the chain moves around. There can be anywhere between 1 to 3 chainrings up front. When you pedal, the crankset rotates, pulling the chain and driving the rear wheel forward.Bottom BracketThe bottom bracket is the bearing system that allows the crankset to rotate smoothly. It sits inside the bottom of the bike frame, where the crank arms attach. It houses the axle that connects the crank arms and allows them to spin with minimal resistance.ChainThe chain is a loop of interlocking metal links that wraps around the chainrings and the cassette (rear gears). It transfers the pedaling power from the crankset to the rear wheel.CassetteThe cassette is the cluster of gears (or cogs) attached to the rear wheels hub. Each cog provides a different gear ratio, allowing you to adjust for varying terrain.The cassette offers a range of gears that help you optimize your pedaling effort, with larger cogs providing easier gears for climbing and smaller cogs for faster, more efficient riding on flat terrain.In the case of a singlespeed there is no cassette. Instead, there is a single rear cog that acts as your only gear. Derailleurs (Front and Rear)The derailleurs are mechanisms that move the chain between different gears on the chainrings (front derailleur) and the cassette (rear derailleur). They adjust the chains position, shifting it onto different gears to change how hard or easy it is to pedal, based on the terrain.Note, many modern bikes only have a single chainring up front and do NOT have a front derailleur. In this case, you only use the rear derailleur for shifting.The rear derailleur is made of several individual parts that it may be helpful to know. The cage is the long arm that holds the jockey wheels (or pulley wheels). The length of the cage determines how much chain slack the derailleur can take up, which is important when using wide-range cassettes.There are two jockey wheels: the upper guide pulley and the lower tension pulley. They spin as the chain moves through the derailleur.The B-tension screw adjusts the distance between the derailleur and the cassette. It helps fine-tune the position of the derailleur, ensuring the chain runs smoothly over all gears.The derailleur has two limit screws, usually marked H (high) and L (low). These screws prevent the derailleur from moving the chain too far in either direction, keeping it from falling off the largest or smallest gears.The spring provides tension to keep the cage pulled backward, maintaining chain tension and helping the derailleur move smoothly. It allows the derailleur to retract when shifting to smaller gears and extend when shifting to larger gears.And finally, a derailleur hanger is a small, replaceable metal piece that attaches the rear derailleur to the bike frame. Its designed to bend or break in the event of a crash to protect the frame and derailleur from damage. A mounting bolt attaches the derailleur to the derailleur hanger on the bike frame.ShiftersThe shifters are the controls mounted on the handlebars that allow you to change gears. They are usually either trigger-style levers or twist-style grips. When you engage the shifters, they pull or release the derailleur cables, moving the derailleurs and shifting the chain between gears.If you have a single chain ring up front and no front derailleur, you will only have one shifter (that goes to the rear derailleur) instead of two. PedalsThe pedals are the parts where your feet connect to the bike, either via flat pedals or clipless pedals. Flat pedals can be used with any shoes, while clipless pedals have a cleat that connects to the bottom of your bike shoes.The CockpitThe cockpit of a bike refers to the area where the rider interacts with the bike through the handlebars, stem, and headset. It plays a critical role in steering, comfort, and control. It also includes your brake levers, shifters, and (potentially) a dropper post lever. We already discussed brake levers and shifter earlier on, so well skip those here.HandlebarThe handlebar is the horizontal bar that you hold onto, and it comes in various shapes depending on the type of bike. Road bikes and gravel bikes typically use drop bars, while mountain bikes use flat or riser bars.The handlebar provides control over steering and handling. It also affects rider posture, with wide bars offering more stability and leverage, and narrow bars offering quicker, more responsive steering.StemThe stem is the part that connects the handlebars to the steerer tube of the fork. They come in various lengths and angles, affecting the bikes handling and rider position.The stem determines how far the handlebars are from the rider and can influence the bikes responsiveness. A longer stem offers a stretched-out, aerodynamic position, while a shorter stem gives more upright posture and quicker handling.HeadsetThe headset is the bearing system inside the head tube of the bike frame that allows the fork and handlebars to turn smoothly. It includes an upper and lower bearing, along with a compression system to keep everything snug.The headset enables smooth steering and supports the load of the rider on the front of the bike. A properly maintained headset allows for precise, easy steering, while a poorly adjusted or worn headset can cause stiff or sloppy steering.Grips Or Grip TapeGrips are rubber or foam coverings on flat or riser handlebars, providing comfort, cushioning, and improved grip for your hands during rides. Grip tape, typically used on drop bars (like those found on road bikes), is a padded, adhesive tape that wraps around the handlebars to provide cushioning and a secure hold. Both grips and grip tape help reduce hand fatigue and improve control by offering a non-slip surface.Saddle And SeatpostThe seatpost and saddle properly position your weight on the bike, and give you a place to sit. SeatpostA seatpost is the tube that connects your bikes saddle to the frame, allowing you to adjust the height of the saddle for a proper fit. It inserts into the seat tube portion of the frame. Often found on mountain bikes, a dropper post is a specialized type of seatpost that allows you to adjust the height of your saddle on the fly using a remote dropper lever located on the handlebars. This allows you to quickly lower the saddle for better control on descents and raise it again for efficient pedaling on climbs.SaddleA saddle is the seat on a bicycle where the rider sits, designed to provide comfort and support while pedaling. The saddle is mounted to the bike via saddle rails, which are two parallel metal or carbon rods underneath the saddle that connect to the seatpost clamp, allowing for adjustments in the saddles position (fore-aft and tilt).Seatpost collarA seatpost collar, also known as a seatpost clamp, is a small ring or clamp located at the top of the bikes seat tube that holds the seatpost securely in place. It allows you to adjust the height of the seatpost and tighten it so it doesnt slip while riding. Some seatpost collars use a bolt for tightening, while others feature a quick-release lever for easier adjustments.More Stuff You Might LikeHow To Use a Bike Pump to Pump a Bike TireHow to Clean and Lube Your Bike Chain (Its Easy!)Ultimate Guide To Womens Bike Sizes & Size ChartAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is the founder and owner of Femme Cyclist.An avid cyclist for a few decades now, she took to cycling during her late teen years a time when she needed something to help boost her self-esteem and confidence.Mission accomplished, the sport has become an important part of her life. Kristens favorite disciplines are mountain biking andbike commuting, although youcan also find her crankingout a century on her road bike and touring with her husband and son. If it has to do with two wheels, she enjoys doing it.Kristen is a certified USA Cycling coach, and she runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.IG:@femme_cyclistThe post Parts Of A Bicycle 101: Diagram & Guide appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

CyclistPro race history: The legend of the first Il Lombardia in 1905In October 1952 Italian sports daily La Gazzetta dello Sport published its 32-page guide to the 46th edition of Il Lombardia, or the Giro di Lombardia as it was known at the time. In among the stories of Fausto Coppi, Gino Bartali and 1951 winner Louison Bobet was a single-page retrospective and interview with the winner of the first edition of the race, Giovanni Gerbi, under the headline 1905: the Devil on the Rails.Gerbi would have been 67 years old when the writer of the story, Ulisse Corno, came calling to talk about the day he entered the books as the first winner of Il Lombardia. How did I win? Gerbi asks rhetorically in the article. I won it as I won other races using my best quality: I was a great finisseur. Once I gained two or three hundred metres, it was done: nobody was able to catch me. But exactly how did Gerbi gain those first metres? Some tricks, we suggest, writes Corno, knowing the legend of the race. At this suggestion, Gerbis face becomes dark.What exactly happened I dont knowIt was around 4pm on Sunday 12th November 1905 that Gerbi sprinted into Milan alone to win the first edition of what is today the final Monument of the season. It had been more than nine hours since he had set off in the company of 53 other riders from the city in cold and wet conditions. From Milan the race headed to checkpoints at Crema, Bergamo and Lecco before returning to Milan for the finish.As he rode out of Milan under heavy skies, Gerbi who would forge a reputation as a rider who prepared for races by scouting routes for strategic places to attack knew exactly where he was going to make his move: Crema, just 30km or so into the race, where he knew tramlines crossed the race route.Race director Eugenio Costamagna would later write, On the Crema road, at a certain point on a curve, the riders met a wagon. What exactly happened I dont know, but the result probably of someones false manoeuvre was almost everybody falling I clearly saw bicycles being pulled out from under the cart, a rider climbing up the escarpment of the ditch where he had tumbled, [meanwhile] Gerbi and [Giovanni] Cuniolo, [Andrea] Massironi and [Battista] Parini had disappeared. Related Posts Pro race history: Beryl Burton wins her first road Worlds in 1960 Who are the favourites for Il Lombardia 2024? Il Lombardia 2024: Everything you need to know Cyclist magazine issue 157: on sale now! Guile and circumstanceGerbi had realised during his many recon rides that the Crema junction could be a key point of the race, one where, if he could cause a disruption in the peloton and emerge alone, he could make a long-range bid for glory. Accounts still vary as to how exactly he pulled it off: some say he led the bunch at high speed into the tramlines and then used a ramp of compacted mud he had built the day before to exit at the right place, leaving the rest to flounder between the rails; others claim he led the other riders at speed into a section wide enough for only one rider, before faking a mechanical and then picking his way through the inevitable carnage.Whatever played out, Gerbi was alone after just 30km thanks to his devilish plan. Fifteen kilometres later his lead was five minutes. At Lecco, not quite halfway, it was 20. By the time he reached Milan in excellent condition, according to La Stampas race report Gerbis lead was more than 40 minutes over second placed Giovanni Rossignoli.Obviously, I always needed time to study a detailed plan, Gerbi told Corno all those years later. For me it was very important in the preparation to study the route. Every time I decided the moment of my attack in advance, and often I was able to perform it as planned.Derring-dos and dontsGerbi, whose nickname the Red Devil was given to him by a priest after he rode through a religious ceremony wearing a scarlet jersey, had turned professional in 1903 after recording notable results as an amateur. His wins included Milan-Turin, where he triumphed over professionals and reached the finish so early that no one from the race jury was waiting for me.Gerbi repeated his 1905 Lombardia win two years later. This time, however, the result wouldnt stand. Again he escaped some 30km into the race but he was aided by his supporters blockading level-crossings and pouring nails and tacks onto the road as well as pacing from training partners once he was alone. Peugeots manager, Leopold Alibert, was aghast at what he had seen.For the future of racing in Italy its vital that this evil man is removed from the cycling scene, he told LAuto. Gerbi was relegated to last place and banned for two years, later reduced to six months.When looking back on his career in 1929, Gerbi reflected on 1907 with mixed emotions: It was my most beautiful victory because I clearly finished first, but also my most crushing defeat because the jury decided to relegate me; it was the typical demonstration of what you could achieve with daily, constant, tenacious training because I managed to cover 200km alone at almost 30kmh on muddy roads. For Gerbi, his performance that day was the classic model of my approach to competition, which hinged on: exact knowledge of the entire course; on the conception and preparation of one or more battle plans; the escape; and the continuation of that escape without caring about anything, except for the finish line, and without changing my mind, that is to say, maintaining my escape to the end, giving all of myself. This article originally appeared in issue 145 of Cyclist magazine. Click here to subscribe Related Posts Pro race history: Beryl Burton wins her first road Worlds in 1960 Who are the favourites for Il Lombardia 2024? Il Lombardia 2024: Everything you need to know Cyclist magazine issue 157: on sale now! The post Pro race history: The legend of the first Il Lombardia in 1905 appeared first on Cyclist.

On the 13th of October, the women's 2024 edition of Chrono des Nations takes place. In a battle against the clock, some of the best time trialists on the planet will be in action, with the race organisers now confirming the start times and order of those involved.First down the ramp will be Frenchw...

CyclistHow to watch Il Lombardia 2024The last Monument of the season, Il Lombardia, will take place on Saturday 12th October 2024. Dubbed The Race of the Falling Leaves because it is held in autumn, the 252km route will this year start in Bergamo and sees riders scale climbs such as theMadonna del Ghisallo andColma di Sormano towards Como in Italy.Defending champion Tadej Pogaar will be on the start line and attempting a four-peat of victories.How to watch and live stream Il Lombardia 2024Tim de Waele/Getty Images)The 2024 Il Lombardia will be available to watch onDiscovery+. The cheapest planfor the streaming service is 6.99 per month, which includes cycling and all other Eurosport programmes.The coverage will take place from 09:25-16:20.If its not being shown in your country, you may be able to watch coverage using a VPN Virtual Private Network which allows users to mask their IP address and watch geo-blocked content, provided they dont need to pay for a subscription. This is also helpful for watching paid-for coverage while travelling abroad in countries without access. One such example isExpressVPN, which is verywell reviewed, helps users to find a way to watch cycling without having to pay for broadcasters services, and costs 5.36 per month, with three months free.Other options includeNordVPN,SurfsharkandKapersky.Il Lombardia 2024: Live TV guideTimes BST and coverage time and channel subject to change.Discovery+: 09:25-16:20Eurosport 2: 18:30-20:00 (highlights)Eurosport 1: 20:00-21:30 (highlights) Related Posts Pro cycling transfers 2024/2025: Elisa Longo Borghini finally confirms move to UAE Team ADQ, Kasper Asgreen signs for EF and Tom Pidcock rumoured to join second-division Q36.5 Who are the favourites for Il Lombardia 2024? Pro race history: The legend of the first Il Lombardia in 1905 Il Lombardia 2024: Everything you need to know The post How to watch Il Lombardia 2024 appeared first on Cyclist.

Recently I asked the Femme Cyclist community what their biggest challenge was as it relates to cycling. One of the most frequent answers? Bike maintenance.From total beginners to seasoned riders, weve discovered that many folks dont know how or are intimidated by the idea of working on their own bike. The good news is that bikes are actually pretty simple machines.You dont have to be an incredibly mechanically-minded person to work on your bike. (Im certainly not).Bike maintenance skills are something that you can learn (and get good at!) with a little practice, some lessons, and the right tools. In this article, we share the what and how: what you should know, what tools you need, and how to gain bike maintenance skills.But first.Why You Should Learn To Work On Your BikeIts cheaper than taking it to a bike shop.Youll be able to keep it in tip-top shape so it runs smoothly and doesnt need expensive repairs later.Youre less likely to get stuck on the side of the road or trail if you know to do simple fixes. Its empowering. It feels good to know how your bike works and how to fix it.In This ArticleThings To Check Before Each Ride (ABCs)Bike Maintenance Everyone Should Know How To DoBike Maintenance Classes And ClinicsBike Maintenance VideosBooks & Other ResourcesBike ToolsThings To Check Before Each Ride (ABCs)The bike community has developed a clever acronym to help you remember what to check before each ride. ABCs stand for Air, Brakes, Chain.Every time you go for a bike ride, you should check these things first.A Is For AirCheck your tire pressure. If your tires are too low you could pinch flat (its never fun having a flat tire), or even crash.The ideal tire pressure for your bike depends on the type of bike, the terrain, and your weight. Always check the sidewall of your tire for the manufacturers recommended pressure range and adjust based on your riding style and conditions.Initially, I recommend using a guage to check your tire pressure. This might be built into the pump youre using, or you can use a separate hand held tire gauge. As you become more comfortable with your bike, youll be better able to determine if you have enough air pressure without even using a gauge. In this case, squeeze the sidewalls of your tire. The tire should feel firm and not too squishy. You can also put your weight on the bike and look at the tire. Does it look low? Is the rim close to the ground? If so, add air! If you need a little help on pumping up your tires, our post/video on using a pump will help. B Is For Brakes Squeeze your front and then your rear brake lever to make sure they are working properly. If your levers are pulling to the bar, or they arent engaging the brakes, then its time to service them.You could also take a quick spin around the parking lot or driveway. Pick a couple of obstacles and try to stop before you get to them. Its better to discover that your brakes arent working well while youre still close to home or to your car, then out on the trail or open road. C is For ChainIs your chain cleaned and lubed? If not, make sure to give it a quick wipe down and lube before you take off. I like to wipe and lube my chain before every ride and give it a deeper cleaning once a month (or more often if riding in muddy or dirty conditions). Bonus: Quick-ReleasesIn addition to the ABCs, I think you should also always check your quick-releases. If you have quick-release skewers on your wheels, make sure they are tightened and firmly closed. Its also not a bad idea to check the quick-release on your seatpost collar. Theres nothing worse than having your seat slowly sink downward.Bike Maintenance Tasks You Should LearnTasks that are bold are things that I believe you should learn right away. All other items can be learned over time as you gain experience and confidence.TiresCheck your tire pressurePump up a tireFix a flatAdd sealant (if running tubeless tires)Use a tubeless plug (if running tubeless tires)Replace worn tiresWheelsCheck your wheel for loose spokes True & tension wheelsBrakesCheck pads for wearChange brake padsBleed brakes (if hydraulic)Replace cables & housingDrivetrainClean your drivetrain and lube your chain *Inspect & tighten cranksetCheck your drivetrain for wearFix a broken chainReplace a chainReplace a cassette Replace chain ringsReplace cables & housingReplace a bottom bracketFork And Shock (On Mountain Bikes)Set and adjust air pressure *Service suspension sealsClean and grease suspension pivotsReplace shock oilOtherReplace grips or bar tapeCheck and tighten bolts *Service dropper post (on mountain bike) Add, replace, or swap out pedals *Bike Maintenance Classes And ClinicsOne of the best ways to learn bicycle maintenance is directly from a professional. You can do this by taking a class or clinic.Ive listed some popular classes below, but chances are a local bike shop or continuing education organization near you offers classes as well. We recommend reaching out to your local womens bike club or organization to ask if they know of any classes.You can also try googling bike maintenance class near me.REI bike maintenance classes (all over the U.S.)Park Tool School (all over)United Bicycle Institute (Ashland, Oregon worth traveling to)Bike Maintenance VideosIf you cant go to an in-person bike maintenance clinic, then the next best thing is watching YouTube videos. Of course, you can always just do a Youtube search for the skill you want to learn, but here are some of our go-to channels:Femme Cyclist (thats us!)Park ToolBike Shop GirlBooks And Other ResourcesYears ago (before the internet was a helpful resource), I learned everything I know about bike maintenance by reading books. Here are a couple of invaluable ones.Zinn And The Art Of Mountain Bike Maintenance*Zinn And The Art Of Road Bike Maintenance*Park Tool Big Blue Book Of Bicycle Maintenance*Bike Tools You Should Have On HandIts time to start building your arsenal of bike tools. There are a couple of ways to do this. You can go ahead and buy a pre-made kit, but that can be spendy. Another option is just to buy tools as you go, and over time youll amass quite the collection.Basic Tools To Get StartedAt a minimum we recommended having these basic tools. Allen wrench setChain lube and cleanerChain brush (or toothbrush)Rags (you can use old t-shirts)Tire levers (do yourself a favor and invest in steel-core ones)Spare tube(s)Tube patch kitFloor pump with gaugePedal wrenchWork stand (ok, this one isnt mandatory but it sure makes life a lot easier)Shock pump (if you have a mountain bike)GreaseA work stand isnt requiredbut it makes working on your bike A LOT easier. Tools To Collect With TimeCrescent wrenches (6 to 12mm)Needle-nose pliersBleed kit and oil(if you have hydraulic disc brakes, specific to your brand)Rotor truing toolTorque wrench Screwdrivers (multiple sizes of flat-head and Phillips)Cable cuttersChain toolChain pliersChain wear indicator gaugeCassette lockring removerChain whipCrank puller (make sure to get the right one for your bike)Bottom bracket tool (make sure to get the right one for your bike)Truing standCone wrenches (13, 15, and 17mm)Spoke wrenchSpoke tension gaugeDish toolAir compressor Derailleur alignment gaugeMore Stuff You Might LikeOur How-To Guides and Tips19 Different Types of Bikes And How to Pick The Best For YouSuspension Set Up And Maintenance With Faith Mata From Jenson USAAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is the founder and owner of Femme Cyclist.An avid cyclist for a few decades now, she took to cycling during her late teen years a time when she needed something to help boost her self-esteem and confidence.Mission accomplished, the sport has become an important part of her life. Kristens favorite disciplines are mountain biking andbike commuting, although youcan also find her crankingout a century on her road bike and touring with her husband and son. If it has to do with two wheels, she enjoys doing it.Kristen is a certified USA Cycling coach, and she runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.IG:@femme_cyclistThe post Your Guide To Bike Maintenance appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Enric Mas' 2024 season will come to an end at Il Lombardia next weekend. The Movistar Team leader will battle for the last time against Tadej Pogacar and co in search of an outstanding result in the last monument of the year, which would round off another solid campaign for the Spaniard, something o...

I recently noticed that Lake shoes had produced a cycling shoe that they had promoted as adventure ready. It looked a very interesting design and having had Lake shoes in the past, most notably their winter boot which has lasted for 8 years so far I really wanted to try them out. I shot the team at lake a DM and they agreed to send a pair out for me to review.Ill start first with sizing and this is because Lake are one of the few companies that manufacture cycling shoes that offer different widths, narrow, regular and wide. The fitting guide on the lake website is excellent, theres even a tutorial on how to measure your own feet. This involves a piece of paper, a tape measure, a pen and of course your feet! I measured mine and took advice from the guys at Lake. I usually take a EU44 and mostly find that size comfortable in most shoe brands. Lake suggested going a half size bigger with a narrow fit. I left the colour up to them, secretly hoping for the white pair as theyd stand out for the photos.My wishes came true and a white pair of MX30Gs turned up and well, this is going to sound silly but they looked even brighter in real life than on the website. Maybe it was a bit of rare sunshine glinting on them that day, but they were a bit dazzling!I was sent the clarino microfibre upper version, there is also a mesh version. I think the version sent is best for UK conditions. The material looks robust and equally importantly it looks like it would wipe clean easily. Which given the nature of UK riding (mud, more mud, water and if were lucky one day of sunshine) is a very important feature, especially when your shoes are that white! The toe box has extra material around it for reinforcement to take any knocks and the rubber sole extends slightly upward at the toe for more protection and to aid traction if walking. The heel is padded but not bulky and the tongue is soft and comfortable. The shoe is secured to your foot via two BOA dials, these have lots of adjustment by twisting one way or the other and release quickly when removing them. its easy to reach down and adjust the fit while riding too, an advantage the BOA system has over laces.The sole is 100% carbon with rubber lugs to aid traction and the addition of two stud placements allows for an enhanced level of grip if needed. The cleat pocket is generously wide allowing lots of mud room.The sole is plain carbon but theres a little rubber coverage between the heel and cleat section. The cleat fitment section of the sole is fairly long and I was able to pull the cleat far enough back for me to feel comfortable. Im definately a ball of the foot over the pedal axle kind of rider rather than on the toes so this was good news, so many other shoe brands dont have this adjustbility The Ride, ill be honest and say that when I took these shoes out of the box I was a little bit intimidated. The colour was the first thing. I always think if youre going to stand out this much then your riding had better live up to the aura of greatness your shoes are emitting! The other was the level of stiffness. Grabbing the shoe by the toe and the heel and trying to bend the sole was an exercise in futility. These babies do not flex!On my feet I found the sizing spot on, the micro adjustability of the BOA system was fantastic and they feel really comfortable. On the bike, the large cleat pocket meant clipping in and out of the pedals was easy and even in the mud they performed flawlessly, not clogging once. The rubber strip across the arch of the shoe is excellent to see, too many carbon or stiff soled shoes miss this out to get a lighter weight but this little strip of rubber can save your bacon. Unclipping for a tight turn and getting back on the pedal sometimes ends in missing the pedal with the cleat and you end up with the wrong part of your shoe on the pedal. A plain carbon arch means you can slip off the pedal in a panic moment (see also rocks, roots etc too). The MX30G offers up that extra grip here that could get you out of a sticky situation before you re-establish accurate contact with the pedal.Power transfer, as youd expect with a sole this stiff is direct. You feel like all your effort is going towards propelling the bike forward. This though does have its downside. Walking is a bit of a chore, entering a cafe you will get the walking like a penguin effect and this also tells you how the shoe would feel if your route contains a good slice of hike-a-bike. The material the shoes are made of has proved to be hard wearing, shaking off all the knocks of off road riding and yes, they clean up well despite a liberal coating of mud and various farm yard effluents! Ive bashed the BOA dials of roots and a gate post and theyve remained as good as the first rideLake describe the MX30G as pure and simpleoff-road adventure shoe which I think is a little innaccurate, maybe pure and simple gravel race shoe would be better. This is all down to the stiffness. The all day comfort is there definately but thats if you stay in the saddle. Prolonged walking would be a bit of a chore purely for the lack of flex in the sole. Lakes other gravel shoe the MX238 is probably a better bet for bike packing (and cafes) with its built in walkability.So it all comes down to what you want your shoe to do because material, comfort, durability and looks wise I cant fault the MX30G shoe, its really, really good. My only criticism is of that one sentence on the lake website which might be a little misleading or maybe its just my idea of an adventure is different to theirs.Oh and it also comes in a more subtle blue colour!more details from Lake here MX30G

Kyle Strait may be taking inspiration for his Rampage build from the Southwest, but for Brendan Fairclough, its all about the horsepower. The horsepower of a very specific Porsche, that is. (Photos/SCOTT Sports, Jules Langeard, Elliot Morge)As the story goes, Brendog attended the Goodwood Festival of Speed where he fell in love with a TAG Turbo. By the photos, it appears to be the Lazante 930 TAG Turbo Championship one of three championship cars to honor titles won by TAG-engined McLarens. This particular Porsche (and Scott Gambler) features a paint job inspired by Alain Prosts F1 helmets from the 1980s, with Porsche Grand-Prix White, McLaren Rocket Red, and Bugatti French Blue. Check out the full build of the SCOTT Gambler Rampage X TAG Turbo Edition in the video above. You can also follow the Youtube link to check out Brendogs build progress at Rampage its gonna be nuts!scott-sports.comThe post Bike Check: Brendan Fairclough will Pilot Porsche-Inspired Gambler at Red Bull Rampage appeared first on Bikerumor.

One of the early advocates of 3D-printed parts, No.22 bicycles used additive-manufactured dropouts in summer 2022. The following year they partnered with Silca to 3D print a complete stem to give them a unique stealth cockpit.Naturally, they needed a top-shelf bike to showcase such things, and thats where the Great Divide comes in. Its a boutique titanium road bike with their signature polished-and-brushed finish, with your choice of anodized finishes. I stuck with the natural titanium finish with a dark gray belly for my test bike, and the geometry was their stock size 58, but you can go full custom if you want.Regardless of what geo you want, each one is built to order, so thats where well startEvery No.22 bike that rolls out of their New York HQ is handmade, one at a time, based on your specs and requested add-ons. They offer seven stock sizes, or you can send your bike fit data for a custom build.Every person who touches the frame signs off on their work, a process that not only maintains accountability but illustrates the number of craftspersons involved (its not just craftsmen, their best anodizer and others on the team are women, too). The most striking element of the bike is the stem, but not just on its ownits the how it hides all of the wires and hoses and creates a perfectly seamless cockpit. That its smooth but so obviously metal (and especially when its anodized in colors to match the frame) makes it even more of a conversation starter.Shape-matched interlocking spacers make bike fit easy and dont require any brake hose disconnects. The stem has two bolts on back to secure it to the fork, pressing a rounded plate against the steerer tube. The top bolt snugs it down to compress the headset bearings.The face plate nests into the top of the stem and bolts down on the topwith two traditionally placed bolts clamping the bar into place.Silca prints the stem for them, so naturally a Silca 3D-printed titanium computer mount is the right option. This ones custom made to fit their stem faceplates.For a headtube that hides everything inside, its not oversized. If Im being honest, I wouldnt want to have to build this bike from scratch (and I didnt), but damn if it doesnt look amazing. I expect stealth routing to look good on carbon bikes, but there is something about this bike that just makes it seem more special.Small touches abound that show No.22s attention to detail. The polished inset head badge is one.And the polished logo; Despite being shiny, its somehow also subtle.The fork inset is another, which gives them a spot to put their logobut also a spot where other brands can put their own mark. No.22 offers this fork to others, too.All main tubes are custom butted to tune ride quality and make it lighter. The downtube is bi-ovalized, sitting a little taller where it meets the head tubeand wider at the downtube to improve torsional stiffness at the pedals. A fat T47 BB shell gives it plenty of space to land. A round seat tube makes front derailleur mounting and seat post selection easy. The T47 BB also makes room for massive bearings, particularly when running a Shimano crankset with 24mm spindle.Note the welds perfect.Tire clearance is rated at 35mm. I rode it with 28mm tires and theres plenty of room to go bigger.The 3D-printed dropouts are left rough but smoothed gradually to blend into the tubes. Note the stealth fender mounts with small bolts to keep them plugged.My test bike was built before the introduction of T-Type/Direct Mount rear derailleurs for road and gravel, but No.22 offers that as an option on this bike now, too. But check out the stout hanger and sleek nesting into the dropout! I never heard any creaking, and shifts were sharp and fast. Also note the minimal Di2 wire protrusion, keeping the aesthetics super clean.No.22 makes their own seatposts but uses ENVEs multi-piece saddle rail clamps. You can opt to use your own post if you prefer.More details: Check the small flat shape at the front of the seatpost collar, which matches their headbadge shape andthe top of the seatstay bridge. Nice continuity, and this bit can be had with a hidden fender mount, too.Heres another photo to drive home just how clean the front of this bike looks.Actual weight for the complete bike with ENVE wheels and handlebar, two Silca ti bottle cages, no pedals, was 18lb 4oz (8.2kg). Its roughly a size 58-59 equivalent.No.22 Great Divide ride reviewWhen people say theres something magical about a titanium bikes ride quality, theyre not lying. So its something for a builder to be able to elevate that, and I think No.22 does.To be fair, I initially had someuhfeelings about the 3D-printed stem. Not skeptical, and not scared. But maybecautiously optimistic. Theres something about the notion of a bunch of metal powder being magically turned into a part that directly connects the two things (fork and handlebar) that take the brunt of the forces at the front end of the bike.So, I started slow and worked up to more stresses and rougher surfaces. In the end, it was perfect, and clearly contributed to the front ends excellent lateral stiffness. Standing and cranking on the bars yielded nothing but dramatically firm swaying of the bike beneath me.That lateral and torsional stiffness also helped the bike carve corners and stick to its lines.And it sends power backward rather efficiently. Compared to the stiffest carbon bikes theres maybe a slight drop in snap off the line, but Id trade that any day for the smoothness this bike delivered.I like that theyre using a T47 BB. Its big, robust, and easy to service. I never heard any complaints from it, either.At $5,999 for just the frameset (frame, fork, and titanium headset, spacers & seat collar, all with raw finish), the Great Divide needs to be special, and it is.Most of my riding is just Zone 2 cruising, with long rolling hills and 50-70 mile stretches from meetup to brewery. For that, it is sublimeeasy to pedal and comfortable, knowing that itll handle the occasional strong pull or county line sprint with ease.But its also a bike that likes to chill. If Id kept it longer, Id put 30-32mm tires on it and it would likely disappear under me.It also handles the occasional gravel road quite well. If I were doing this a lot I might swap in a carbon seatpost, but I honestly dont have any complaints.No.22 Bicycles clearly fall into the boutique category of bikes you want because you want them and can afford them. Nothing wrong with that, but its nice to see that theyre more than just art, theyre helping create the state of the art with clever touches and beautiful finishing work. And they ride pretty damn nice, too.22Bicycles.comThe post Review: No22 Great Divide Disc & 3D-Printed Ti Stem appeared first on Bikerumor.