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Gravel Big Ride: Welcome to Girona, cycling central
CyclistGravel Big Ride: Welcome to Girona, cycling centralThe qualities required of a good gravel ride are not dissimilar to those you would ask of a decent pub quiz. Make it too easy and pretty soon everyone will get bored (did someone say Gravel World Championships?), yet if its too challenging, catering strictly to specialists, frustration will set in. No one wants to look like a dummy so, whether youre testing your legs or cerebral lobes, both trails and trivia should provide a gentle massage of the ego.In addition, both should contain enough variety that the differing talents of everyone in your team are catered for something that has been grasped by my ride partner and guide for today, Louise from Girona bike shop and touring company Eat, Sleep, Cycle. Related Posts Gravel Big Ride: Ride the volcano on Mount Teide Gravel Big Ride: Beyond and back in Andalusia, Spain Gravel Big Ride: Riding the real Strade Bianche under the Tuscan sun Louise has devised a gravel ride that will take us from the heart of Girona in a large anticlockwise loop, and which will take in tough climbs, speedy flats, forests, orchards, smooth tarmac, cobbled streets, pretty hillside towns and some of the most perfect gravel you could hope to find.Theres an array of ways to enjoy apples in this part of Spain, including fermented, stewed, with sausage, as a dessert all at once.Patrik Lundin / CyclistTo get my excuses in early, I inform Louise that the day before I not only made an assault on the infamous Rocacorba climb (10km at 7% average gradient) but then followed that by joining a 50km group ride that I thought might be a gentle social spin. It turned out that this being Girona the group was full of pros, and while the pace may have been gentle for them it was leg-shredding for me.Louise tries to reassure me that, although todays ride has almost 1,300m of climbing, its mostly packed into the first third of the route. Im not sure that this is particularly comforting but at least the temperature is perfect, neither too cool nor as ferociously hot as it has been here lately.Sunrise in the city. Cyclist heads out of Girona in search of the paths less travelled.Patrik Lundin / CyclistLouise has selected as our starting point Plaza de la Independncia, which seems appropriate considering how active the Catalan independence movement has been in recent years. In fact, the square memorialises the towns thrice-successful resistance against Napoleons French forces in the 19th century and, truth be told, the Catexit campaign (as no one is calling it) has seen better days.Exploring the town the previous day, I stumbled upon a convenient visual metaphor for such waning fortunes a wooden hut, attended by just a couple of genial older folks and in need of more than a mere lick of red and yellow paint. A poll taken late last year found only 31% of people now support independence, while recent regional elections revealed a dimming of support for hardline separatists.The majority of the climbing comes in the first third of the route.Patrik Lundin / CyclistSo when we start off on our ride, its in the knowledge that this part of the world will remain a part of Spain for the foreseeable future.The road less travelledWith the sun peeking above the buildings, we make our way out of Girona through narrow streets. Louise stops briefly to chat to a woman pushing a buggy, and subsequently informs me it was the wife of journeyman pro Joey Rosskopf. This really is Cycling Central.Paved streets soon give way to rough stuff, while neutral gradients become incrementally positive. As my legs struggle to adjust to this early test, I begin to regret the heavy crema catalana dessert I enjoyed at dinner last night. I stomp my way up the first ramps while doing my best to find what looks like a suitable line.The gateway to Les Gavarres Nature Reserve, which makes up 28,672 hectares of protected parkland.Patrik Lundin / CyclistFortunately the gravel surface is firmly packed and forgiving, and I can let my bike find its own line. It seems to know exactly where its going, and the summit arrives sooner than expected. When we pause before rejoining the road Im even more surprised to check my computer to find weve risen 300m in a few kilometres.When we hit smooth tarmac our climbing speed increases considerably, although not quickly enough to prevent being overtaken by a rider emblazoned in the yellow kit of the Visma-Lease a Bike womens squad. Shes going too fast for me to spot who is behind the shades, but all I can tell you is it isnt Marianne Vos.If we were to continue along this same road we would reach the church of Santuari de la Mare de Deu dels ngels, where Salvador Dal married his muse Gala in 1958. Instead we turn off to the right for a few kilometres of rolling terrain. Wild scrub lines the sandy path and everything is so still and silent that Im able to tune into each crunch and crackle of the tyres against stones and the occasional snap of a twig.Patrik Lundin / CyclistWith almost a third of the ride done and a brisk tailwind helping us along, we are comfortably enough on schedule that we have time to stop in the walled medieval village of Monells. A leisurely caffe sin leche in the 10th century square alongside a group of jolly cyclotouristes from Kent is followed by a bidon refill from the public fountain before getting back on the road.Except, of course, its not actually a road. The gravel path takes us between fields where there are no vehicles bar the odd tractor. The sky is cloudless and the going is easy. Every hilltop is crowned with an ancient castillo, most of which have switched their purpose from repelling invaders to welcoming guests.Arriving in the medieval town of Monells for the first of three pitstops.Patrik Lundin / CyclistThe easternmost point of our ride is at the town of Pals, where we turn north and soon find ourselves in cider country. If that phrase conjures images of straw-hatted Somerset yokels supping from earthenware flagons, then its time to rethink. Gironas apple industry is rather more sophisticated, and Louise has planned a lunch stop to match.Mooma is a farm, cider house and restaurant that is more opulent than the roadside vendors I usually patronise for my mid-ride nutrition, but I dont put up a fight when Louise insists we order the botifarra dola amb poma i sidra, which translates into reality as sweet sausage with apple and cider. As long as we can have croquetas as well. And patatas bravas. Not forgetting the pan con tomate. And we should probably at least sample their speciality ice cider. Its only polite.The surface on the farm tracks between the fields of Pals is gravel so fine its almost sand.Patrik Lundin / CyclistThe sweet apple sausage thing is somewhat odd, but delicious enough to make me forget that we still have a full afternoons riding ahead. Louise obviously knew exactly what she was doing when she front-loaded the climbing.First food, then drinksTo say we make a sluggish start to the second half of the ride would be a huge understatement. A couple of kilometres of quiet rural lanes brings us to our next stretch of mercifully level gravel. Two abreast, we scoot along a farm track reminiscent of the Breton ribino you see at the one-day Classic Tro Bro Lon. I try to decide whether the crown or the side is better for my digestion.Only 15km out from lunch and Louise informs me its time for our third stop of the day, just past the village of Parlav. Apparently our day will not be complete without a stop at the craft Doskiwis brewery. Again, who am I to argue? Shes the expert around here.Even after a hot summer the hills above Girona are evergreen.Patrik Lundin / CyclistMost people probably dont recognise the exact point at which they reach middle age. For me, I realise it has arrived as I scan the names above the bar to decide which of the craft ales I most like the sound of. Summer Teeth leaps out, a mango sour IPA that apparently pays tribute to American indie band Wilco whose albums one of which was called Summerteeth I had at least six of back when I was a student.I ask Michael, Doskiwis Antipodean owner, if Via Girona, another IPA, is a reference to Via Chicago, one of the most popular tracks in the bands catalogue. I get the impression I may have pushed the whole Wilco connection too far when he mutters that it is just a coincidence. Louises eyes are beginning to glaze over and I get the hint that its probably time to go.Catalonia, or the Somerset of Spain, as too few people call it.Patrik Lundin / CyclistI ask Michael if I can buy a can to take home in my bar bag. On the house, he says, and I promise to repay him with a mention in a certain cycling magazine.Back to baseWere 26km from home, the sun is out and Im loving life. With just a few interruptions, the next 15km is almost entirely off-road, predominantly a singletrack path that runs alongside the Onyar river. It weaves its way through a monocultural forest planted to prevent the river from flooding, and the canopy cover generates a welcome natural air-conditioning effect. In places the vegetation encroaches on the path so much its hard to see the route, but I manage to avoid steering into a swamp.On the final run-in to Girona, Louise suddenly ups the pace. As I do all I can to cling to her wheel, I wonder if she is late for an appointment or just desperate to get home. It turns out to be neither. Shes just an incredibly strong rider and loves the feeling of stamping on the pedals.Which comes first the love of that feeling or the strength to do it I dont know, but I guess its just want happens when you become a resident of Cycling Central.All smiles as we leave the craft Doskiwis brewery. We only had a half, honest.Patrik Lundin / CyclistHow we did itTravelCyclist flew to Barcelona, just over two hours from London. From the airport its a one hour 20 minute drive to Girona. Flights also go direct to Girona, although less frequently than to Barcelona.AccommodationFor our Girona gravel adventure we stayed at Can Campolier, better known as Rocacorba Cycling (rocacorbacycling.cc). It has rustic charm aplenty, great food and is a cyclists retreat par excellence, located just a couple of kilometres from the famed Rocacorba climb and run by WorldTour cyclist Ashleigh Moolman-Pasio and her partner. In Girona, Cyclist also stayed at the central Hotel Carlemany for two nights (hotelcarlemanygirona.com).ThanksMany thanks to Pilar Herrero at the Catalan Tourist Board (gencat.cat) for help organising our trip, and also Louise Laker and her team at Eat, Sleep, Cycle (eatsleepcycle.com) who provided bikes as well as designing and leading the ride. More thanks to Michael Jones, master brewer at Doskiwis (doskiwisbrewing.com) for opening up on his day off and having excellent taste in music. Lastly, thanks to photographer Patrik for being my occasional ride buddy and always encouraging me to have dessert. Related Posts Gravel Big Ride: Ride the volcano on Mount Teide Gravel Big Ride: Beyond and back in Andalusia, Spain Gravel Big Ride: Riding the real Strade Bianche under the Tuscan sun The post Gravel Big Ride: Welcome to Girona, cycling central appeared first on Cyclist.
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