CyclistBig Ride: Master and apprentice in the PyreneesAsphalt must have been in short supply when the Col de Beyrde was paved. Its the only explanation I can think of for its sadistic steepness: that there simply wasnt enough road to take a less severe route to its 1,417m summit.This is the unknown Pyrenees. Were barely two kilometres from one of the ranges most famous climbs yet the one were on is almost entirely overlooked. The Strava stats at the time of writing reveal that fewer than 1,000 users have climbed Beyrde. Maybe most people know better. Related Posts Big Ride: The Circle of Death in the Pyrenees Big Ride: The old one-two in the Pyrenees Classic climb: Col du Tourmalet, the climb the Tour loves more than any other Big Ride: On a wing and a prayer in the Pyrenees The Col du Tourmalet, by contrast, needs little introduction. No climb has featured more frequently in the Tour de France. This titan of the borderlands rises to 2,115m and this year marks its 90th appearance in the Tour since it was first scaled in 1910. In fact, last year it hosted three Grand Tours, with the Tour, Tour de France Femmes and Vuelta a Espaa all having summit finishes atop its slopes. Such is the Tourmalets legend, its less a case of the mountain being honoured to receive the races as the races visiting to honour the mountain.Chris StorrarOur route today is a clockwise loop of increasing difficulty that takes in the best of both worlds: one half covers some of the most famous and oft-ridden roads in the Pyrenees, the other scurries through the regions foothills, lanes and barely passable passes. These are the service tunnels, the spaces between.Blue skies and bright eyesThe air is chilly as my ride partner Dave and I set off from my guesthouse in Villelongue at the foot of Hautacam, but there isnt a cloud in sight. Were immediately onto winding side roads and passing through pretty villages. Turning east into a gorge and out of the shadow of the Hautacam Massif, the rays of the rising sun dance in the waters of the stream that runs parallel to the road.Chris StorrarAt the Col de Lingous (620m) we turn right and continue up to the Col de la Croix Blanche (858m), the gradient mild save for a sharp kick in the final kilometre. There is a quicker and easier way across these hills if you want to save your legs, but the views across the foothills and out over the plains to the north are worth the effort on a clear day like this.The descent is fast and fun, if a little too narrow and dirty to really let loose. It peters out progressively and were pedalling properly again by the time we reach the village of Pouzac. If we continued south on this road wed reach the eastern side of the Tourmalet in what is a popular 100km loop, but we have other plans. We skirt around Bagnres-de-Bigorre and head back into the scenery.Climbing the Col de Palomires with the talismanic Pic du Midi de Bigorre in the distance as a reminder of much bigger climbs to come.Chris StorrarTwo hours in, we reach our second summit of the day, the Col de Palomires, via 4.5km of climbing at 5.6% that is sedate enough to allow conversation to be had uninterrupted.The descent down the other side is equally gentle a serene reduction of altitude but still quick enough that pedalling isnt required. It takes us into a small, claustrophobic gorge and a series of short climbs. These hills, the Barronnies, are mere pimples compared to the mountains that rise behind them, but theyre so closely packed that it feels like were threading through them.Leaving the village of Beyrde to tackle its namesake col.Chris StorrarEmerging at Hche with 72km ridden, we turn south onto the big valley road and settle into time-trial mode, swapping turns and keeping the pace brisk.The steepeningIts easy to miss the turning for the Col de Beyrde its a narrow road indicated by a very small sign but you know all about it when youre on it. The road quickly rises before us, hitting 10 then 12 then 14%. Breathing becomes deeper and more purposeful, every pedal stroke now a concerted effort. Across the relatively easy sequence of climbs to this point we have been careful to conserve ammunition, and this is why. Plus theres still the small matter of the Tourmalet to come.Winding through the tranquil Baronnies foothills, with the high mountains looming large behind.Chris StorrarIts much warmer now, and the village of Beyrde-Jumet midway up the climb feels like an oven. Were grateful to reach the dense forest beyond and some sporadic shade, especially since the pitch eases off at this point too. But the respite is short-lived and, in truth, the ramping up of the gradient with around 4km to go is hardly unexpected.Theres no chance of an espresso at the summit of the Col de Beyrde.Chris StorrarThe gradient cranks up deep into double digits and stays there as time itself seems to slow along with our speed and cadence. But, eventually, the road runs out of mountain with which to torture us and were released onto the summit plateau with nothing but a few donkeys and cows for company, none of which so much as look up, let alone congratulate us.In August 2020, the Route dOccitanie became the first pro race to tackle Beyrde and the climb blew the leading group apart as the Ineos Grenadiers train worked to set up an in-form Egan Bernal to take victory at the summit.While Beyrde is a pass, theres good reason why it was a summit finish that day. The top part of the descent is very steep and altogether too dangerous for a pro peloton travelling at full tilt, with loose gravel on a road surface that sometimes turns to dirt without warning. Descending the lower gravel section of the Col de Beyrde towards Lac de Payolle.Chris StorrarIts perfectly rideable with a little care, but were glad to put the most treacherous stretches behind us as we reach Lac de Payolle, where the Col dAspin and Hourquette dAncizan meet on their western sides. Theres a cluster of good restaurants here if youre hungry but we need to press on. Fortunately the rest of the descent is flowing, and when we reach Sainte-Marie de Campan were feeling slightly recovered.Ye be warnedThe statue of Eugne Christophe at the base of the Tourmalet in Sainte-Marie de Campan, where he welded his own fork back together in 1913.Chris StorrarOur computers tick over 100km as we pass the statue of Eugne Christophe brandishing his repaired fork aloft, signalling the start of the Col du Tourmalet. For the opening 5km we roll along in the big ring, but at the village of Gripp things do indeed become grippy. The Tourmalet, seemingly ambivalent until now, gives us its full attention, standing up straight and setting the toll at 10%.The iconic roofed section of the Tourmalet, 7km from the top, with Pic du Midi once more in the background.Chris StorrarEmerging from the trees, the scale of the thing is laid out before us in a way that only a handful of climbs can rival. Above us, the long Tourmalet semi-tunnel is clearly visible, looking impossibly distant despite being barely past halfway up.By the time we reach it the view back down the valley is spectacular, and we can make out the observatory on the 2,800m Pic du Midi de Bigorre, a full kilometre in altitude above us. It is for these things and many more that the slopes of the Tourmalet are feared and revered in equal measure.Entering the final switchback, 400m from the top of the Tourmalet, where the scenery is at its dramatic best.Chris StorrarThe ski station of La Mongie comes into view straight after the tunnel, at around the 6km to go sign. It is the high mountain equivalent of a 19th century coastal wrecking community luring ships onto the rocks and plundering the goods. It makes you think youre close to the top, tempts you into using too much energy on slopes that are as steep as its ski hotels are hideous, then offers to salvage the wrecks of your legs at one of its restaurants before presenting a bill that takes all your money.Road murals from the 2021 Tour de France provide a boost on the steep final ramp.Chris StorrarWe sail a steady course and escape their clutches, but scavengers remain in the form of massive griffon vultures circling high above. Theyre short of food and there has been at least one reported incident of several birds working together to take down a live sheep. I try not to think about the fact that adult sheep weigh about the same as people.The summit of the Col du Tourmalet feels more special than most. For a start, there are the high-quality murals that were painted on the road ahead of the Tours visit in 2021 by a crew from Belgium. Chris StorrarThen theres the steep final ramp that ensures every rider has to earn their passage over the pass, followed by a particularly strong sense of cresting a ridgeline as the road turns over the top and a whole new view is served up. The sun fires giant shafts of warmth through breaks in the gathering clouds and onto the sprawling road before us.We have over 30km still to ride but its all downhill from here. After a brief break to enjoy the views we head for home, our Pyrenees experience complete, from B-side to A-side.Diving into the final descent with our way lit by spotlights from on high.Chris StorrarBeyrdes big breakA brief history of the Route dOccitanieIf you were feeling generous you could describe the Route dOccitanie as the Pyrenean equivalent of the Critrium du Dauphin in the Alps. Both enjoy a pre-Tour de France calendar slot to lure GC riders to test and hone their form on a tough parcours, though the Dauphin is by far the more prestigious race, bigger in every regard. Nor does it serve the same dress-rehearsal role for Tour stages as the Dauphin, though it does occasionally explore as-yet-unraced climbs such as the Col de Beyrde in 2020, the Col de Couraduque in 2016 and the Col de Spandelles in 2012.The race began as the Tour du Tarn in 1977, became the Tour Midi-Pyrnes and then the Route du Sud until 2018, when its name was changed to match the new French administrative region of Occitanie, created in 2014 by merging the Midi-Pyrnes with Languedoc-Roussillon. This left the race with the difficult task of appeasing an area half the size of England and just four stages in which to do it, all while being lured by the beautiful Pyrenees.The 2020 victor, Egan Bernal, became the fourth different Colombian winner, continuing a strong tradition of success for the nation, which includes numerous stage wins and secondary jerseys.How we did itChris StorrarTravelThe Pyrenees are accessible with direct flights from Stansted to Lourdes six days a week in summer and from Dublin three days a week, plus daily flights from Paris for transatlantic connections. Its only a half hour drive from Lourdes airport to the start of the ride, which just happens to be my guest house, Escape To The Pyrenees in Villelongue. Pau airport is one hour away, Toulouse two hours, and theres a good train service to Lourdes. Alternatively, take the overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo which tips out at 9am, leaving you an easy eight-hour drive.AccommodationOK, Im biased, but Escape To The Pyrenees is a gorgeous cycling guesthouse, perfectly located to ride this route and many other famous climbs, and hosted by yours truly. We offer fully catered stays, either self-guided or on a guided and vehicle-supported tour. A professional chef cooks delicious meals tailored to hungry cyclists, and we also provide homemade ride snacks and custom GPX routes. Go to escapetothepyrenees.com.ThanksThanks to Terry for driving the photo/support car, mucking in with everything and near-telepathic bottle service; Dave for always being up for a challenge, producing prodigious amounts of both sweat and excuses, and being a great mate; and tireless photographer Chris for his good vibes and great shots. Related Posts Big Ride: The Circle of Death in the Pyrenees Big Ride: The old one-two in the Pyrenees Classic climb: Col du Tourmalet, the climb the Tour loves more than any other Big Ride: On a wing and a prayer in the Pyrenees The post Big Ride: Master and apprentice in the Pyrenees appeared first on Cyclist.