The 2026 Tour de France is closer than we may admit to ourselves, but Uno-X Mobility are quick to remind us that the cycling's biggest event is on the menu already next week. The Scandinavians have become a tradition to be among first teams to unveil their selection, this year only slower than anoth...

For much of his career, Luke Plapp has been known as quite a 'hot and cold' rider who was excellent on his good days, but often completely invisible the others. But with a magical combination of strong time trial and climbing qualities, it was only a matter of time for the Australian to find himself...

Need to remove the pedals from your bike (or put new ones on), but not sure how to do it?No fear: this is one of the easiest bike how tos out there. A few minutes, some simple tools, and a little elbow grease is all you need. Ill walk you step-by-step through the process so that youll have your pedals off in no time.Tools Needed:A pedal wrench* (preferred) or 8mm hex wrench*Bike *g*rease* (if youre installing new pedals or putting your pedals back on)Time Required5 minutes or lessDifficulty LevelBeginnerVideo TutorialStep 1: Shift Your Bike to The Largest ChainringHave a work stand? Mount your bike in the workstand to make life a little easier. Dont have a work stand? Thats ok. Simply lean your bike against a wall, or better yet, have a friend hold it steady for you. If you have several chain rings up front, shift to the largest one. If you have only one chain ring, you can skip this step.All were trying to do here is avoid the chance that your hand or arm could slip and get cut on the big chainring. If your chain is covering the chainring, theres an added element of protection.Step 2: Use The Pedal Wrench or Hex Wrench to Loosen the PedalsThe easiest and most common way to remove bike pedals is with a pedal wrench. Im going to first explain how to use it, and then Ill explain removal using a hex wrench.The pedal wrench and crank arm are less than 90 degrees apartWith the pedal wrench, place the wrench on the part of the pedal that screws into the crank arm. You want it so that the wrench and the crankarm are at 90 degrees or less. This will give you proper leverage. Grip the opposite crank. If you are removing the right pedal, hold the left crank arm steady. Turn the wrench BACKWARD away from the handlebars and toward your saddle. This holds true for both the right and left pedals. The righty-tighty, lefty-loosey thing doesnt work on pedals.If you dont have a pedal wrench, you can use an 8mm hex wrench (also called an Allen wrench). Put the shorter side of the wrench into the back of the pedal. FIRMLY grip the opposite crankarm. Again, youll want to turn the wrench toward the back of the bike, not toward the handlebars.Removing pedals with a hex wrenchWhichever tool youre using, give the pedal three or four turns into it is nice and loose. Step 3: Unscrew the Pedals with your Fingers Until They Come OffOnce youve loosened the pedals, you can simply use your fingers to continue unscrewing them all of the way.(Optional) Step 4: Grease the Pedal Threads and Install ThemAssuming you are putting the pedals on a different bike, or putting new pedals on the same bike, youll essentially reverse the instructions I just gave you.BUT FIRST, make sure to lightly apply some bike grease onto the threads (the part that screws in). This will make it easier to take off the pedals the next time you need too. Apply bike grease to the threads before installing the pedalThen, simply begin to screw the pedals into the crankarm. This time, you will want to turn the pedals FORWARD toward the handelbars to tighten. Tighten as much as you can with your fingers and then tighten them using either a pedal wrench or an 8mm hex wrench. Tada, you did it! Not too hard, right?More Stuff You Might LikeYour Guide To Bike Maintenance (Conquer The Fear!)How to Clean Your Bike in Five Easy Steps!How To Set Up Tubeless Tires On Your BikeAbout The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post How To Remove Bike Pedals appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Finding the perfect tire pressure for your mountain bike is more art than science. The reason that there is no magic number for tire pressure is that we each weigh a different amount, have different riding styles, and have different preferences. \Your ideal tire pressure is going to be different than your friends ideal tire pressure.This is evident even when you look at professional racers. Two riders racing on the same course and using the same tires might have their tires set at two different pressures.Despite all these factors, finding the right tire pressure is worth the effort. A properly inflated tire will increase speed, improve traction, stop pinch flats, and improve overall enjoyment.Heres exactly how to dial in the perfect mountain bike tire pressure, step by step.Step 1: Determine Your Baseline Tire PressureThe first thing is to figure out a BASELINE tire pressure. This is a starting point from which you can adjust in the following steps. Youll want to keep adjusting until you find your own personal sweet spot. Tire Width Tubeless Tubed Under 2.2 XC/race 2832 PSI 3236 PSI 2.22.3 XC/trail 2529 PSI 2933 PSI 2.32.4 trail 2327 PSI 2730 PSI 2.42.6 trail/enduro 2024 PSI 2427 PSI 2.62.8 enduro/DH 1822 PSI 2125 PSI 2.83.0 plus 1518 PSI 1822 PSI 4.0 fat bike 610 PSI 1014 PSI All ranges assume a 120150 lb rider on mixed trail. Adjust up or down using the weight table below.Note that tubeless setups can be run with much lower pressure than tires with tubes since you dont have to worry about pinch flats. In fact, this is one of the biggest reasons to switch to tubeless tires if you havent already.Step 2: Adjust For Rider WeightThe first thing you need to consider is your weight. Heavier riders need more air pressure than lighter riders. Im significantly lighter than my husband, for instance, and ride on average with 10 psi less than him. Thats a big difference.Use the table above as a baseline, then adjust up or down based on your weight as follows: Rider Weight Adjustment from Baseline Under 120 lbs 35 PSI lower 120150 lbs Use baseline 150175 lbs 35 PSI higher 175+ lbs 58 PSI higher Start with the tire width table above, then shift up or down based on your weight.Step 3: Buy a Decent Pressure GaugeBefore messing with your tire pressure, make sure you actually own a decent pressure gauge. Most of us (myself included) are guilty of using our hands as a pressure gauge. We squeeze the sidewalls of our tire to gauge if we have enough air.While doing this is okay in a pinch, if youre really committed to dialing in your tire pressure, you should use an actual pressure gauge. Youve probably also noticed that the gauge on your tire pump is worthless. It will get you in the ballpark but can be off by as much as 25%. Not great for accuracy.I recommend using a digital pressure gauge. (I use and like the Topeak Smartgauge*). This will give you a super accurate reading and allow you to figure out the exact pressure you prefer within 1-2 psi.For the best results, always use the same gauge. That way even if it isnt super accurate, youre always inflating your tires to the same baseline pressure.Step 4: Adjust for Trail Conditions And TerrainWhere youre riding and what the current conditions are like should also affect your choice of tire pressure. Riding rocky, rooty terrain? Lower your pressure. Riding smooth, buff trail? Bump it up a little.Even when riding the same trails, your tire pressure may change a bit from one day to the next. The lower your tire pressure, the better your traction, so let out a little pressure for snow, ice, or mud.Finally, air pressure drops at elevation, so if youre driving to the mountains, make sure to check your PSI when you get to the trailhead, not in your garage at home.Step 5: Factor In Your SetupThe tire pressure you should run has a lot to do with the tire itself (and the rim it is mounted on). The biggest factor will be whether or not you have tubeless tires, but thats already reflected in the cheat sheet above.The width of your rim and the width of the tire also play a role. The wider the rim and the wider the tire, the lower the tire pressure that you can get away with. This is one of the reasons that wider tires have become so popular. They allow you to get away with a much lower tire pressure than you would be able to on a traditional cross-country style tire.Also, consider the construction of the tire. Tires with higher TPIs (threads per inch) should be run at a lower pressure than tires with a lower TPI. Finally, if youre running tire inserts like CushCore, you can typically go even lower with your pressure (sometimes 35 PSI lower than youd otherwise run). Inserts add structure and rim protection, so the tire itself doesnt have to do as much work. Check your specific inserts recommendations as a starting point.#5) Experiment And Fine TuneThe moral of all this? Dont be afraid to play around with your tire pressure! Bring your gauge and a pump to the trailhead. Heck, you can even bring your gauge out on the trail and experiment.If youre really serious about testing out your tire pressure, set up a little course and experiment with different pressures. Start with the maximum pressure listed on your sidewall and time yourself. Next time, let out a few PSI and time yourself again. Repeat until you stop making time gains or until the tire starts feeling squirmy.Also, remember: tire pressure isnt just about going faster. When you experiment with tire pressure, pay attention to what FEELS good to you. Where do you feel like you have enough traction? How much plushness do you prefer? What tire pressure makes you feel confident riding over obstacles? Practice until its perfect.You can also play around with running different pressures in the front and rear tires. The front tire receives less weight distribution than the rear so you can usually get away with running a little lower pressure in the front tire. Try running the front at 3 PSI less than the rear and see how that feels.Signs Your Tire Pressure Is Too HighPoor traction, skidding in corners and when brakingHarsh, uncomfortable rideSigns Your Tire Pressure Is Too LowHitting the rimPinch flatsLack of stability in cornersAbout the Manufacturers Recommended Tire PressureIf you look at the sidewall of your tires, youll notice a recommended tire pressure range from the manufacturer. This is a legal thing and shows what they consider the max pressure and the min pressure. If you put too much pressure in a tire, it could blow off the rim. Too little pressure and you can damage the rim.While your ideal tire pressure is likely within this range, its okay to experiment outside of it as well. While its unlikely that your ideal tire pressure is higher than the maximum pressure, it could be lower. Smaller and more petite women who dont weight much are often better served by a lower tire pressure. At 120 pounds, I personally often run my tires at a few PSI lower than the recommended pressure listed on my tires.More Stuff You Might LikeHow To Refresh Tubeless Tire Sealant9 Ways To Increase Your Confidence On The Mountain BikeWomens MTB Clinics, Camps, & Events About The AuthorKristen Bonkoski is a USA cycling and NICA coach, bike educator, and founder of Femme Cyclist.Shes also the host of the Femme Cyclist podcast and runsRascal Rides, a website about biking with kids.Shes been riding bikes for more than two decades and is passionate about empowering women on the bike.IG:@femme_cyclistJoin Kristens Weekly Newsletter!The post Mountain Bike Tire Pressure: How to Find the Right PSI appeared first on Femme Cyclist.

Hats off to Victor Bosoni, who just finished the 2026 Tour Divide in record-breaking time! Riding with remarkable speed, discipline, and composure from Banff to Antelope Wells, the young French ultracyclist completed the route in just 11 days, 8 hours, and 45 minutes, more than a day and a half faster than the official previous men's record. From his recovery-first approach to his meticulously dialed setup, Bosoni delivered one of the most impressive performances in the history of the race. Learn all about it here...The post Victor Bosoni Wins The 2026 Tour Divide! appeared first on BIKEPACKING.com.

Paul Seixas and Albert Withen Philipsen have both made a convincing leap straight to WorldTour from the junior category, in particular the Frenchman who, just 18 months into his professional career is already viewed as a serious Tour de France podium contender. And yet, both of them were defeated wi...

In the new UCI WorldTour Ranking, as has been the case since very early phases of this season, UAE Team Emirates - XRG stand on top. While the Emirati team may not be on the trajectory to repeat its 40,000-point haul of last season, they still maintain a comfortable lead. Tadej Pogacar, after winnin...

CW: How did you get into cycling? OP: I started off running, doing local cross-country races. My uncle [Andy Peace] won the 3 Peaks Cyclo-cross race four times, so I got into cycling through cyclo-cross. I joined my local club [Bronte Tykes], raced on the local circuits, and gradually as I went through the age groups things got more serious. I raced internationally as a junior and was picked up by the Picnic development team.CW: How were your two seasons as an U23? OP: All of Picnic's development riders live on site in Sittard, in the Netherlands, where there are 12 houses with two riders in each. I shared a house with Jacob Bush, who is a really good mate. I really enjoyed my two years living there, and this team is great for developing riders, not just physically but mentally in lots of different situations.CW: What sort of rider are you? OP: I'm still exploring, but for sure I am more of a climber. I prefer the shorter stuff like in the Ardennes, but I've also really enjoyed the longer mountain stages that I've done so far.CW: How are you adapting to life in the World Tour? OP: It's clearly a big step up physically, and being in the bunch is obviously faster, as when the racing is on it's really on, but it also feels more comfortable. Because everyone's at such a high level and knows how to ride a bike, racing is more predictable. In the U23 scene, everyone's scrapping around, willing to risk it all to get to the bottom of the climb first. There's more trust in a World Tour bunch.CW: How has your training evolved? OP: I've changed coaches, and the main change has been the amount of intensity I've been doing, especially more VO2max stuff from December onwards. It works for me and has helped me to improve a lot.Oliver Peace's training diaryWeek's wisdomThe week highlights the power of polarisation: a stark alternating of pain and Peace! Note how he goes very hard when it matters, and truly easy the rest of the time. Just as important as VO2max efforts are complete rest days and gentle spins. Fully polarising training like this is easier for pros doing 20-plus-hour weeks, but it's a worthy aspiration of all of us. Make the hard efforts really hard, the rest really restful.Monday: VO2max intervals This was the last day of a three-day block and there were four sets of intervals. I started with four times 90 seconds at Zone 5, so around 490 watts, with 45-second rest periods. Then it was five reps of 60 seconds at the same intensity, with 30 seconds off. The third block was six lots of 40 seconds with 20 seconds' rest. In the last hour I did 10 reps of 30 seconds at the same power, with 30 seconds' rest. Total riding: 4hr 55mTuesday: Rest day Usually I like to ride to the cafe for an hour on a rest day and meet guys who are returning from their own training, but this time I took the day off. Total riding: 0hrWednesday: Sprint intervals This was mostly a Zone 2 endurance ride but after 30 minutes I did three lots of one-minute max efforts with 10-15 minutes' recovery in between. I also did two five-second sprints, and two 10-seconds sprints. My maximum power was 1,190 watts. Total riding: 4hr 10minThursday: Threshold session After a 45-minute warm-up, I did two intervals of 20 minutes in Zone 4, which is 365 watts, just below 5W/kg. I then did four two-minute Zone 5 efforts with three minutes recovery in between, followed by four lots of five minutes at 400 watts, with just four minutes between each effort. I used the same climb for all the efforts. Total riding: 4hr 15minFriday: Recovery ride This was a day off, and even though it was raining I still went out for an hour to spin the legs. Depending on my racing schedule, I usually go to the gym a couple of times a week, and at specific points of the year - such as before the Tour Down Under - I'll go to the sauna and have hot baths. Total riding: 1hr 5min(Image credit: Getty Images)Saturday: EMOM spikes I fluctuated between Zone 1 and low Zone 3 for most of this ride, and in the third hour I did two 10-minute efforts at 300 watts with EMOM [every minute on the minute] spikes for 10 seconds at 420 watts. In the final hour, I had two eight-minute Zone 5 efforts, so around 425 watts. It's nice just to go out and just ride, but I prefer doing efforts and having a structured ride, so I enjoy days like this more. Total riding: 4hrSunday: VO2max intervals This was the exact same session as Monday: five hours with four sets of VO2max blocks of between 30 and 90 seconds. I felt a lot better than I had on Monday, and was able to push a little bit more, especially in the last hour. My Training Stress Score for this day was 266-quite high. I didn't feel magic after coming back from the Tour Down Under, so this was a productive training week and it was nice to do some grippy efforts ahead of my next goals. Total riding: 5hr 5minTotal riding: 23 hours, 30 mins