If someone deserves a Super Combativity award at this Giro d'Italia after two weeks of racing, there's one big favourite - Julian Alaphilippe. After his stage victory in stage 12, the two-time world champion has found a seemingly bottomless source of energy, continuously throwing himself in breakawa...

The youngest rider of this Giro d'Italia Giulio Pellizzari was on the brink of a breakthrough triumph on the slopes of Monte Pasa as he was . But it wasn't to be for the VF Group-Bardiani-CSF-Faizane rider as Tadej Pogacar emerged from the peloton to shatter the 20-year-old Italian's dream.So it was...

Pro-Noctis - 200 Coffee - Hargreaves Contracting are hoping to raise 10,000 to support their racing this season

CyclistRideLondon bike check: 5 maintenance tips and what to avoid ahead of the big dayRideLondon is one of the biggest events on the UKs cycling calendar and, for many people, is the pinnacle of their years cycling goals. With multiple distances on offer its a chance to test yourself on closed roads, riding with thousands of other cyclists.Whatever your goals for the day are, the one thing you definitely dont want to experience is bike problems. So, to help you avoid mechanical mishaps, weve put together a bike check list with the key areas to look at, as well as some crucial dos and donts to avoid RideLondon bike drama. Related Posts Cyclist Magazine Podcast episode 105: RideLondon Special, with race director Kevin Nash Get ready for RideLondon 2024 Taking over London: Behind the scenes at RideLondon Gallery: Best RideLondon Classique yet? Watch: How to true a bike wheel How to adjust your front derailleur Video: How to adjust a rear derailleur and index your gears Why do a bike check?If youre dusting off your bike for the first time in a while ahead of the event, it may seem fairly obvious to give it a once-over (or better still a twice-over) to make sure everythings in working order. For regular riders, this step may seem unnecessary.I just serviced my bike, we hear you think to yourself. But when exactly was that? Because, chances are, its longer ago than you thought and no one wants cooked brake pads or a snapped chain to ruin their RideLondon fun, especially if youve had it marked in your calendar for a while.What to checkBrake padsChecking your brake pads is, in our opinion, the most important thing to do before any big ride because it comes down to safety, for you and those around you. Other components may help with speed or comfort but brake pads are essential for the control of your bike. This is doubly important at events like RideLondon where lots of riders are cycling in close proximity, at varying speeds and accelerating/decelerating in the bunch.Rim brake pads are relatively simple to check. Almost all rim brake pads will have a line marked on the top, which denotes the minimum thickness they can safely be used at. If your pads are approaching this line, its worth changing them out before big rides as you never know how much youll need to use them during the event.Disc brake pads can be slightly harder to see, as they are housed within the caliper. The easiest way to check them is to take your wheel out and shine a light into the caliper. If the inner side of the pad the actual braking surface is reaching half the thickness of the pad backing, its worth replacing them.It can be tricky to gauge wear with disc pads so it can be worth popping into your local bike shop and asking them to have a quick look. Most will do this for free and will be able to advise you on what pads you will need if they ought to be swapped out.ChainWhat brake pads are to slowing down, your chain is to actually moving forwards. The chain is one of the three main elements of your drivetrain, alongside the cassette and chainrings, and is the first of three to wear out. General guidelines suggest that a chain will last anywhere between 1,500 and 2,000 miles, but factors such as dirt, rust and dryness can accelerate the process.Its nigh on impossible to know if a chain is worn out by eye alone, so its recommended to use a chain checker to measure the wear. A chain checker assesses chain stretch, which is the increase in the distance between chains pin spacing. Chain checkers come in all shapes and sizes, and its worth noting that different speed chains will require changing at different wear intervals. The higher the number of gears, the more precise the chain needs to be and the less wear it can withstand and still function accurately.For example, a 9- or 10-speed chain can be used until it reaches 0.75% stretch, whereas 11-, 12- and 13-speed chains are better off being changed around the 0.5% mark.Not changing your chain when worn will speed up the degeneration of your cassette and then your chainrings, all of which can be costly to replace. Buy yourself a chain checker theyre not pricy and save yourself and your wallet.CablesGone are the days when traditional metal cables were ubiquitous on our bikes but many of us still use them for braking, shifting or both. Inner cables run inside protective housing that allows them to slide smoothly backwards and forwards when actuated by the levers. Or so is the case on brand new cables.Over time, water and debris can cause rust to build up inside the cable housing, affecting the cables ability to slide freely and thus perform its task, whether thats changing gear or actuating your brake calipers. Our advice is to change your cables once a year, more so if you regularly ride in poor weather conditions or leave your bike outside.A key point to note is that new cables need time to bed in after being fitted. The cable outer will compress slightly after the first few rides, and the inner cable tension will need nipping up, generally after a few weeks of riding.So, while its important to have functional cables for safety and efficiency, its worth bearing this in mind if youre planning to get new cables fitted ahead of the big day and plan a follow-up trip to the bike shop accordingly.Bottom bracketThe bottom bracket: bearings that groan with every pedal stroke are the scourge of many a would-be silent ride. Not only is the sound irritating, but it could also be doing damage to your frame and/or components.Some bottom brackets, such as those with threaded cups, are relatively easy to replace at home if you have the right tools. Others, such as press fit cups or bearings that slot directly into the frame, often require specialist skills as well as tools.A quick way to check whether your bottom bracket could do with some TLC is to remove the chain from the chainrings moving it safely out the way so that it doesnt get jammed and spinning your cranks, with one hand touching the frame. If you can feel vibrations or hear noise, its worth taking it to a shop to get looked at, as the bearings are likely worn out and could do with replacing.WheelsIt doesnt take a genius to know that we, as cyclists, wouldnt get very far without functioning wheels. There are many elements on wheels that can require attention but to keep it simple, lets focus on the two main factors. Firstly, does your wheel spin true? This is bike-speak for turning in a straight line. With the wheel raised off the ground, face it head on and spin it. If it looks like its wobbling from side to side, it needs a true, or you might have a broken spoke. Now do the same, facing the wheel side on. If there is a big jump up or down a hop in mechanic speak the same is likely true, and unless you have the specialist skills to re-true the wheel, a trip to the bike shop is required to ensure this minor issue doesnt develop into something more serious.Secondly, wheels run on bearings that allow them to rotate freely. While the wheel is spinning, place a hand on the closest part of the frame that meets the wheel. As with the bottom bracket, if you can feel vibrations or hear noise, the bearings likely need replacing.Another way of checking is by holding the wheel by the rim, keeping the bike still, and trying to rock the wheel side to side. If there is movement independent of the bike, this is also a key sign that the bearings are worn out or are loose and need their pre-load adjusting.Dos and DontsDont: get a huge service a few days before the rideI know, I know, weve just recommended 101 things that might need replacing on your bike and said that all of them need doing before the big day arrives, so this piece of advice may sound contradictory, but hear us out.The key part of this is not just before the event. If youre getting a big service done on your bike, its important to leave a good amount of time for any quirks or follow-up issues to arise and then get sorted. Bikes can be finnicky and even with the best mechanic in the world, unexpected problems can pop up following lots of work.Bike shops, in London in particular, get very busy ahead of RideLondon, often filling up weeks in advance, so dont leave it to the last minute to get your bike ride-ready.Do: test ride your bike a week before the big dayWhether youve only replaced your brake pads, had a full service or done absolutely nothing to your bike at all, take your bike out for a solid test ride at least a week before the event. New brake pads may need time to bed in; that new chain might not work smoothly with an old cassette; the bottom bracket you thought was fine might suddenly start creaking mid-ride.All of these are possibilities that you want to know ahead of time, so you have an opportunity to resolve them, rather than noticing them on your ride from your accommodation to the start line.Dont: skimp on brake pads or chainIt might feel like the savvy thing to do to get as much as you can out of your brake pads and chain but, unless youre highly knowledgeable on bike maintenance/a professional mechanic, it can be hard to know when the line is crossed from safe to dangerous.Were not suggesting replacing parts too early, and definitely not for the sake of it, but keep in mind that eking an extra 100km out of your worn-out chain is likely to result in your cassette and chainrings wearing out significantly faster.As for brakes, run down disc brake pads can damage your disc rotors, or worse, the calipers themselves. This is a costly component to replace, especially when incorporating labour costs. More importantly, playing it fast and loose with brake pads is simply dangerous, so think carefully before throwing out the classic itll be fine line youll thank us later.Do: go to a bike shop if youre unsure/out of your depthBikes have become increasingly complicated over the past decade. From hydraulic brakes to internal cable routing to electronic gears, they arent the simple and intuitive machines they once were. Even if your bike doesnt have those components, there are elements on most models that require technical know-how to repair.As much as we applaud anyone learning to repair their own bikes, putting those new-found skills to the test ahead of a big ride is likely to lead to frustration and mishaps. Trust us when we say that you dont want to be bottom bracket deep in grease and shattered bearings the night before the event!If youre stuck on a repair, or even knowing whether a component needs to be replaced, pop down to your local bike shop and ask a mechanic. Fixing bikes is their job and any decent shop will be willing to give you some guidance or highlight when a problem is best tackled by a professional. It will be more than your pride that will take a bruising if your crankset comes loose mid-ride because you forgot where that extra bolt should go.This article was originally published in January 2024. Related Posts Cyclist Magazine Podcast episode 105: RideLondon Special, with race director Kevin Nash Get ready for RideLondon 2024 Taking over London: Behind the scenes at RideLondon Gallery: Best RideLondon Classique yet? Watch: How to true a bike wheel How to adjust your front derailleur Video: How to adjust a rear derailleur and index your gears The post RideLondon bike check: 5 maintenance tips and what to avoid ahead of the big day appeared first on Cyclist.

The Criterium du Dauphin is the first World Tour event following the Giro d'Italia and traditionally, the most important race in preparation for the Tour de France. Here we will have many of the Tour's stars battling it out on all kinds of terrain including the high mountains from the 2nd to the 9t...

Lidl-Trek one of several major teams missing for June event

CyclistAero vs lightweight bike: Which is better for climbing?The benefits of lightness when riding uphill have been appreciated since time immemorial, and by now we all know how valuable aero gear can be at saving time on the flat. But in between there must be a crossover, so where is it and what can it tell us about optimising our equipment choices?Its an interesting question, says renowned aerodynamicist Simon Smart of Drag2Zero, consultant to WorldTour teams and here to provide his expert insight. I get asked about this a lot.The aero effect is quite small at climbing speeds and most of your work is against gravity. On the other hand, when you consider total system weight, including the rider, the extra weight of the aero setup isnt that much either.Its often suggested that aero trips over into the need for lightweight at around a 5% or 6% gradient, so to test that theory, and to examine the differences aero or lightweight setups can make, we sourced some of the fastest and lightest kit around and went pedalling off up a 6% climb. Heres what happenedIt was important that both sets of kit be fully committed to their respective roles no all-rounders. We scoured the market and these items are either best in class or very close to it. Related Posts Aero vs lightweight vs all-rounder: which is the fastest road bike? Specialized S-Works Aethos review BMC Timemachine Road 01 Two review Best road bikes: Best bikes from under 1,000 to over 10,000 Best aero bikes 2024: Ride faster for less effort The lightweight setupThe Specialized S-Works Aethos is the perfect lightweight bike for this experiment, solely focussed on its job of skipping up big climbs, with round tubes and not a single aero feature.This one is a top-spec custom build with SRAM Red eTap AXS belonging to a staff member of Specialized France.The Assos Superlger clothing collection is designed for hot days, steep climbs and also indoor training. Its so minimal that the jersey has no zip and only one pocket, reducing its weight to 90g. Giros Empire SLX II shoes are among the very lightest currently on sale, as is the Poc Ventral Lite helmet. Its a winning mountain setup.The aero setupIn the aero corner, the BMC Timemachine is as focussed on drag as the Aethos is on gravity.Every element is shaped to slip through the air, right down to the down tube and integrated bottle cages, designed to direct air around bottles.It comes on do-everything 50mm wheels so, for the purposes of this test, we fitted a set of mighty Zipp 808 Firecrests, 82mm deep and 2,015g in weight. The result was an aero monster of 8.18kg, almost 2kg up on the Aethos.Every piece of aero kit is equally single-minded: Suplest Aero shoes reduce drag with a lace cover and weigh 128g more than the Giros; the clever ribbed fabric of the Rule 28 socks saves further watts for 26g extra; and the recently launched Giro Eclipse Spherical helmet is claimed to be one of the fastest on the market, but carries an extra 98g compared to the Poc.Finally, theres the Le Col McLaren Project Aero speedsuit, an incredibly advanced (and expensive) one-piece road suit with two pockets. Its claimed to be the fastest such suit in the world, yet a little awkwardly its actually 30g lighter than the Assos jersey and bibshorts combination.But thats near unavoidable given that speedsuits dont have bibstraps nor extra hems and seams.Method: Ride up a mountainOur test segment was the top 5km of the Col dAubisque on the eastern side. Its an ideal gradient, a near-constant 6.3% with the bonus of being bite-your-fist beautiful. Its also conveniently close to my guesthouse (ahem,Escape to the Pyrenees).Each run began and ended at precise points, starting from stationary but clipped in with a brief trackstand. Timing was by the computers lap button as I could press it at pretty much the same place, whereas the GPS accuracy of a Strava segment is more dubious.I rode to power, averaging 300W for each run, given aerodynamics start to take effect at 15kph it was important to stay above that mark, and its quite a bit slower than it would be climbed at the Tour de France. Doing this blind is impossible, of course, but by staring at my computer like Chris Froome and watching live power, lap average power and lap normalised power on a dedicated screen, its as straightforward as can be to control both average power for the run and smooth power distribution.I stayed in the saddle and on the hoods throughout, trying to maintain the same body position, and carried nothing with me. Each bike got two runs for validation.It was essential to control as many variables as possible, so the two bikes were set up with identical fit measurements and were fitted with Pirelli P-Zero Race 26mm tyres (208g each) and Maxxis Ultralight inner tubes.Tyres were inflated to 90psi (front) and 95psi (rear). Additionally, each bike was cleaned and silicone-polished to give an equal finish, and the drivetrains were removed, run through an ultrasonic cleaner and relubricated with Squirt wax. If that sounds like a lot of work, it was.Favero kindly supplied a set of Assioma Duo power pedals (302g), which were ideal as they could easily be swapped between bikes, plus they boast +/-1% accuracy and temperature compensation to account for any temperature changes over the test period.While this was a test of a theory, not the bikes themselves, its important to note that the precise results will apply to these setups only. Different aero or lightweight products will give their own outcomes. However, the trends seen here will apply in most cases.Heres how it wentBoth runs on both bikes went smoothly. I pedalled continuously, tried to hold the same position, took the same lines and averaged the same power. As close as its possible to get in the field, this felt like a fair test.While there were moments when the bikes felt different, the experiences of riding the climb on each were ultimately very similar. I couldnt feel whether more of my energy was being used against gravity or air resistance, dependant on the bike, only that for a given effort I was moving at a certain speed.This similarity of feeling is compounded by the testing controls. Staying seated at a constant power limits opportunities for the setups to differentiate themselves in terms of feel.When you stand on the pedals, the Aethos scampers up steep grades like a squirrel up a tree a sensation the Timemachine doesnt elicit. But sat down and churning out equal power, the respective sensations of equipment performance are near indistinguishable.Some of the differences when it comes to kit are slightly more tangible, however.The most noticeable contrast is in the helmets. The aerodynamic Giro is 98g (47%) heavier than the Poc Ventral Lite, and I could just about feel it. However the 64g per shoe difference between the Suplest Aeros and Giro Empires wasnt detectable.Clothing is trickier. The aero speedsuit is actually a little lighter than the separate albeit superlight jersey and bibshorts, which fit closely and dont flap. But being skin-tight is only the beginning of clothing aerodynamics, and the Le Col speedsuit achieves its speed with advanced fabrics and crucial seam placement.Again, I couldnt feel these things working, but its well established that skinsuits are faster.The very close times between runs indicates that our testing protocols worked well. The lightweight setup posted identical times and the aero setup deviated by just two seconds (a 0.2% variance).Averaging the aero times to 15:25 gives us a win for the lightweight setup by 15 seconds, which over 5km is a 1.5% advantage.However, to dig a little deeper we went back to Simon Smart, who did a range of calculations based on our results and some very well-educated estimates of the total system drag of each setup, and broke down the outcome: Out of your 300W, around 16W went on rolling resistance and, on the lightweight setup, around 24W is aero drag. The rest, 260W, is climbing drag, working against gravity.The aero setup saves around 20% of the work against the air, so 4.8W, while the 2.2kg weight penalty costs around 8W, so its a net loss of 3.2W.While those numbers are estimates based on experience and expertise, that 3.2W loss of the aero setup would tally with the idea that the lightweight setup was marginally faster uphill.Conclusion: Have we found the tipping point?Based on the supposition that the steeper the climb, the more gravity plays a role, the very close times we recorded seem to indicate our 6.3% climb is right around the crossover point where aerodynamics gives way to lightness as the primary concern for a fast time uphill.Of course the optimum setup would combine the best of both worlds, taking aero gains without weight penalty. As such, a speedsuit would likely be an easy free-speed win.The proportional relationship of aero and weight is far from linear, however, and the most effective products are the outliers from that line, those that combine most of the lightness with most of the aero. This all-rounder concept is everywhere in road cycling right now.So, given all this, what would Smart choose to ride up our climb? Id take a 40-50mm wheelset and a minimal aero road bike, such as the Specialized Tarmac or Scott Foil, or a lighter semi-aero option such as the Scott Addict.Still, you have to think about the rest of the course and what time you might gain back on the descents or flats.Thats valuable insight we would all do well to keep in mind, especially those of us who tend towards aero obsession or weight weeniness. In fact, it sounds like a fascinating premise to testRead more: Aero vs lightweight vs all-rounder: which is the fastest road bike?Aero vs. lightweight: The full setupsAero setupBike: BMC Timemachine 01 Two, 56cm, 8.18kg (7.90kg stock)Wheels:Zipp 808 FirecrestHelmet:Giro Eclipse Spherical, 308gGlasses:SunGod Airas, 33gSpeedsuit:Le Col x McLaren Project Aero, 189gSocks:Rule 28, 56gShoes:Suplest Aero, EU45, 626gTotal kit weight:1,212gTotal equipment weight:9.39kgTotal weight (inc 74kg rider):83.39kg, (2.7% heavier than lightweight setup)Lightweight setupBike:Specialized S-Works Aethos, 56cm, 6.19kgHelmet:Poc Ventral Lite, 210gGlasses:Poc Elicit, 23gJersey:Assos Equipe RSR Superlger S9, 90gBibshorts:Assos Equipe RSR Superlger S9, 129gSocks:Assos RS Superlger, 30gShoes:Giro Empire SLX II, 45, 498gTotal kit weight:980gTotal equipment weight:7.17kgTotal weight inc 74kg rider: 81.17kgResultsCol dAubisque, final 5km, 6.3%Aero run 1: 15:26, 300W average power, 17.3kmh average speedAero run 2: 15:24, 300W average power, 17.3kmh average speedLight run 1: 15:10, 300W average power, 17.6kmh average speedLight run 2: 15:10, 300W average power, 17.6kmh average speedThanksBig thanks to Simon Smart at Drag2Zerofor his expert insight; Billy at Specialized France for the loan of his personal S-Works Aethos; Favero for the excellent Assioma Duo power pedals; and Pirelli for supplying the P Zero Race control tyres. Ride the Col dAubisque and many others with Escape to the Pyrenees.Photography:Chris StorrarThis article was originally published in 2022. Related Posts Aero vs lightweight vs all-rounder: which is the fastest road bike? Specialized S-Works Aethos review BMC Timemachine Road 01 Two review Best road bikes: Best bikes from under 1,000 to over 10,000 Best aero bikes 2024: Ride faster for less effort The post Aero vs lightweight bike: Which is better for climbing? appeared first on Cyclist.

Joxen Fernndez Matxn, manager of the UAE Team Emirates, was on the microphones of Partidazo de Cope yesterday to talk about Tadej Pogacar and what he is achieving in the Giro d'Italia in particular and in his incredible career as a cyclist in general."I've been doing this for 30 years and he's th...